doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Definition of a loose action?

Not really an option.

1: I don't know of any gunsmiths, much less ones I would trust.
2: I don't have extra money to burn.
3: I have a machine shop and can do really nice work for almost nothing as opposed to questionable work done by someone I don't even know.

I just want to know the best way to about this easily, capability is not a problem.

Regards,
Chaz

You're not going to find the solution on the internet.

Best way? Usually a new pin, but not always practical as it is costly and not all pins are removable. You said you were able to weld the hook and refit, that would be my second choice.

Hey Chaz, you will have to take some comments posted here with a grain of salt. Of course, if you loved the gun and you wanted to have it as perfect as possible you could fit a new pin or weld the hook or whatever. But for your purposes soldering a piece of shim stock is the way to go. If you use a glue you will always be expecting the shim to fall out so stick with solder. Really any solder will do, whatever is handy. I made that comment about lead-free solder because I had to do a bunch of copper sweat joints recently and it's not as nice to use as the old stuff. I swore a lot. Anyway, if you do a nice job your heirs will still be shooting that gun when you are six feet under.
Nial

Barrelsmith Mike Orlen of Amherst MASS had a pictorial on here a few yrs. back which included: pix of round bar or transfer punch of suitable diameter which acted as a caul to hold shim in place in the hook, clamping pts. for a simple C-clamp, rec. for solder content and fluxing, wet rags in bore. You've got all that stuff and Capability to boot so go for it. I stuck one in the hook of an Ithaca NID with some nondescript cyanocrylate which wasn't Black Max and it held for a couple yrs. Whatever you put in there, shim or weld metal, will have to be eased and humored with a file, abrasive sleeve, or mill simply because it isn't a simple problem of reducing the diameter of the hook. You're setting the barrels back. If what you need is X dimension at the back of the hook to do so, shimming all the way round the hook reduces diameter by 2X which means the hook will simply wedge on the pin and gun won't close. My shim was feathered too the hook metal top and bottom before it closed.

jack

I must have misread the post. I thought our poster had a full machine shop and skills. By all means a beer can shim must be the preferential method.

Hello Chaz, just so you know, Black Max is NOT an epoxy it is a special cyanoacrylate.
According to its description, it could work.

Also should mention I am just repeating what someone else posted here a few
years back.

Best,

JC

Go with the soldered shim. I've done a few years ago when Mike Orlen told us how to do it. It is the least intrusive, effective solution, and the guns I've done are still tight and on face. Chops

Question about the solder: how much space would one allow for the solder? If a .003 shim is needed do I reduce the shim to .002 or what?

Thanks Nial. The soldered shim does seem to be the way to go. If it ever becomes a problem I can always weld the hook later on, don't think it will be though. I get what you mean about all the copper joints, going to have to redo all my plumbing pretty soon, been replacing with pvc though, at least so far.

I've leared to just let people go, they can say anything they want, but there's no rule that says I need to pay any mind to them when they start with the crazy-talkin'.

Thanks again,
Chaz