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Joined: Dec 2010
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Sidelock
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Joined: Dec 2010
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Yea, the Brownells is better oil.Also the hard ware store grade has other ingrediants in like anti fungal, mildew reistant,etc. You can speed up the hardening using naptha ,but sometimes it screws you up if you are in a hurry

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Quote:
speed up the hardening using naptha


VM&P Naptha is getting harder to find around here, so I laid in a big supply. I have also had to stockpile sanding sealer and Japan Drier. Good lacquer sanding sealer became illegal here last summer. I'm not a painter, but I bought 175 gallons of oil stain two summers ago because it also became illegal. Have enough to stain the house and the cabin two more times. That should take me to the point where I don't care any more.

skeettx #221477 03/13/11 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted By: skeettx
Anyone still use Lin-Speed??

http://www.lin-speed.com/


I don't know if there's any difference in Linspeed and Tru-Oil. I've used both and can't really tell any difference.

I've also used hardware store linseed oil. It takes longer to dry, but other than that I can't tell much difference in the final finish.

The Army arsenals used hot linseed or tung oil on wooden stocks. They dipped the stocks in the oil and let them dry, accordint to a source I read, maybe Phil Sharp. The sanding on these stocks wasn't designed to give a stellar finish. It was designed to turn water in the field to an extent, but required reapplications by GIs. We did it on M 14s with raw linseed oil and rags.

Anything that dries will give a great finish if you prepare the surface well and sand between coats with really fine sandpaper. Four or five coats of Tru Oil will look OK if the pores are filled, but a dozen or so looks much better.

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