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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 238
Sidelock
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I have never messed with gunsmithing.

That said,I have a broken spring on a 12 ga. Fulton, I figure how bad can it go? I just recieved the spring from Numrich. Can someone give me the 1,2,3 on removing the stock? I have removed the obvious two bolts and the screw on the trigger guard, the stock is sloppy loose now.

I have a buyer for the gun and would prefer not to have to put additional dollars in this gun.

Last edited by Fred Lowe; 01/25/11 09:24 PM.
Joined: Dec 2010
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Joined: Dec 2010
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Not familiar with that particuar gun, but does it have the two bottom screws on the bottom plate? Most doubles, you do not have to separate the top tang assembly from the bottm as the saftey is on the top and the triggers on the bottom and they must connect through a slot or hole in the stock. It's been awhile since I restcoked a side plate model so I forget what it involves with them

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I removed a screw from the trigger guard exposing a bolt which I removed and a bolt under the lever. The stock is loose but does not slip off. Doesn't make sense to force it.

Joined: Apr 2006
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I am not familiar with this model either but you probably need to remove the side locks if you haven't already. Loosen the screws the gently tap the with the butt of a screwdriver to push one lock out. Then use a brass drift/punch to tap the other out. Go slow and careful so as not to cause wood chip-outs.

Phil

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This is a boxlock gun. Hunter Arms Fulton. Should be pretty basic, just never been there. On anything of more value I would take it to a smith.

Joined: Feb 2006
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Fred, if it is a side lock gun, first make sure the gun is cocked. Remove the left side lock and use the long connecting screw and screw it into the right lock and try to pull it off. If it is snug use a #8-10 penny finishing nail and put it into the slot where the sear fits and tap it off
Remove the wood screw/s from the trigger guard and lift it out of the fit and swing turn it off. (counterclock wise) Remove the screw that was underneath the trigger guard, it goes to the top rear tang, below the safety. Mark this screw as this one and the long side plate connecting screw are very close in length.
Remove the small 4-40 screw in front of the now removed trigger guard. This goes to the top lever. Under the top lever is a long screw that goes to the trigger plate housing. Final screw is the front tirgger plate housing screw, should be quite tight.
Now you will have to either put a drift into the small hole where the 4-40 screw came from, but one that does not fit into the threraded hole and tap the top lever up so that it will release itself from the fit in the trigger plate housing. Or place a rag across the inletted area of the trigger guard wood and put a thin bladed screw driver and pop the trigger plate housing loose.

Main thing is to have the exact size screw driver bits in both the width and length of the screws.

Re-assmembly is the hardest,especially since you have never done this. Drop me an email when you are ready and I will send you the proceedure.

Also, if you gun had a three position safety, the spring you bought will not work.

You posted your response as I was typing this, DISREGARD

Last edited by JDW; 01/26/11 11:56 AM.

David


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pull the trigger housing out before you remove the stock. Otherwise the sears keep it from coming off.

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JDW, Thank you for the attempt and response!

wburns- Does the trigger housing unscrew on the front, like a Parker, or what holds the front in place. I tried to unscrew it yesterday but it didn't want to move. Had to leave town won't be able to mess with it until I return.

Thank you both.

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I believe that it is connected to the floor plate. If you can't see a division line between the trigger housing and the floor plate then it is a solid unit like on a Remington 1900. I would advise though to use the right screw drivers on those screws. You can use regular screw drivers, just file them to shape and make sure they are straight in profile and not tapered or it will bugger up the slot. Regardless of the cost of the gun nothing looks shoddier than bad screws.

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I have a Fulton in 20g.

As Fred pointed out earlier,it's a boxlock.

He has removed the triggerplate.

It's possible the sears may have to be removed to get the stock off. This is true of a number of boxlocks.

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