doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com How to best remove old dark oil finsh?

There is a lot of truth in this statement. That is why it is important to not rush degreasing to maximize how much oil you do get out. A couple years ago, I picked up a Flues for $75.00 at a local gun show. It was quite oily, and had two small pieces of wood broken out behind the receiver on either side of the top tang. I decided to degrease so I could glue in a couple strips of matching walnut. I did a pretty thorough job, starting with ammonia to saponify the oil and remove most of the dirt. Then I did some short heatings in a microwave with the stock wrapped in toilet tissue to bring out more oil. You must be very careful not to overheat the wood if you try this... I once had a forearm split lengthwise. Finally, I did a few soakings in acetone and lacquer thinner. I thought I had it licked, and it looked like new walnut. I put this project on the back burner for 8 or 10 months before I finally got some free time to finish it. I was shocked at how much more oil had migrated to the surface. I had to do some more oil removal before attempting the glue repair. I was afraid that more might come up after the fix and be stopped by the epoxy joint and make my repair pieces that I so carefully chose to match color, grain, and pore structure, stick out like a sore thumb. Soon after patching, I sanded the repair to original contours and quickly started refinishing with plenty of thinned oil modified urethane to penetrate the wood and hopefully keep any remaining oil from coming up. So far, so good.

I do not like acetone either, it's flammable and volitile. I have used mineral spirits with good success though. Make sure the container is sealed if you use the soaking method though, as the solvent will evaporate quickly

What? The pros don't approve of the Wonko Bomb? Who knew? Like John Roberts, I have had simple, quick, and relatively easy and safe (cf. to methyline chloride strippers)results with laquer thinner. I scrub the junk off with thinner and Scotchbrite and also use Scotchbrite for any whisker cutting necessary and as a final burnisher before application of the new finish. I always "sand as much as I want" which is not at all. Think the subject has expanded to include removal of gun oil and maybe for that the "brew" is needed.

jack

The torch burns of those whiskers that will only get pushed back down when sanded. Not risky if done right.You want to dry it quickly which will bring out more whiskers than a hair drier. You keep the torch ,moving and do not linger on one spot whne you see the wood just begin to dry.

I mentioned oil removal because the OP stated it was an old stock.I have seen most older stocks oil soaked within the tang area or right up against the action. Therefore it must be addresed as much as finish removal if a good finished is desired. It must be removed as much as posdible, although it will not ever be 100%.

If one can get the oil out maybe 1/8" deep, and finish immedaitely before any more migrtaes out,the finish will stick.

I have successfuly done several old military rifles with this method and just finised a pre 1900 Raick Freres double Belgium shotgun.