doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Appreciate some guidance

This abomination was , unfortunately, a home made piece of Hide of the Nauga overlaying some foam stuff. The material went over the comb, so the holes are on both sides of the stock. Yes---Bofe'um. And if you remember the old joke with that "word", you will know how much I thought of this "enhancement".
No way that it will be replaced.
This is a Diamond Quality Lindner, so most will know that I wish it back to looking righteous.
Best,
John

John, Steaming is definitely not going to do it. Steaming will only bring back fibers that were dented, not torn like in a cut, or sharp dent.
They now sell wood filler in different shades that is stainable also. Try and match it to your stock, a little lighter is better, because then you can stain it to match. Use a thin flexible plastic putty knife, and fill the holes and then use the putty knife to level them to the stock. You might have to do it again, because the filler might and probably will shrink. Do it again, and make sure you use the putty knife to level it again.You are using the putty knife so that you don't leave any excess filler built up on the stock, because then you will have to sand it. Let dry and see how the match is. They also sell markers for patching up scratches in furniture that will help to blend your color in.
If the finish to the wood needs to be done to those areas, post again, and myself or someone will help you melt the existing finish over to the new areas with just a small amount of time and effort.

Steaming is also going to take any surrounding finish off, even using a small soldering iron with a wet cloth.

You might want to try the following method that I have used to fill small holes in an 18th Century table top.

Find a raw wood area ..... maybe under a butt plate or fore end iron. Using a sharp blade scrape a small amount of wood (you could also use sandpaper or fine file). If possible take some from an area where the wood color is the closest match. Then work the dry wood dust into the holes with a toothpick until it is almost full. Mix some of the remaining dust into the wood finish you think most resembles the stock's remaining finish ..... it should be somewhat wet so that some of the excess will be drawn down by the dry dust. Level with a smooth tool and let dry. When very dry and hard it should buff smooth and blend in. My table fix, now after a few years looks like a swirl in the grain.

Al

I would continue dribbling water down into the holes, allowing it to be absorbed followed by placing under a geat lamp. Ken

I have filled in holes and filled in dents and gouges to be level with the stock by using regular acraglas without the floc. It is often invisible after the repair. Even if you can still see the repair, I think it will give the least noticable repair.

Or you can cut little walnut plugs if you are not too keen on the acraglas method

Great to see you posting again.

Problem is that you know where the repair is and will always see the repair. I would try to make it as minor a repair as possible and leave it at that. No repair will completely hide the stupid actions of others sometimes.

I have used mini dutch plugs to hide defects and this may work for you. Consider using a combination of acuglass and very small wood plugs to hide the defects. If you had a 1/16" thick strip of wood that you could glue into the holes and then trim back before refinishing it might hide the repair. Cut into 1/16" x 1/4-3/8" x width of the hole tapered plugs, using a exacto knife. You have to have the grain going in the same direction and a very close color match. They do not have to go very deep into the hole, leave the top of the plug above the surface. After setting you can trim back and sand flush then finish. Color and grain orentation is very important but with care should be matched quite well.

Now if you have rust in the holes you will still have a black hole to fill. Other here might suggest a way to remove any discoloration. Cheap tacks tend to leave rust stains behind. Hope ypu are not fighting this problem also.

No rust. These were small brass round head nails. We called them sprigs when I was a young'un in Georgia. Think they are called brads now, here in these Yankee Mountains.
Best,
John

John,

If you elect to use plugs remember that if you cut them from a strip of wood, they will be end-grain. For cabinet work, I use a plug cutter on my drill press that cuts them from long grain. If that is what you choose to do, figure out a way to cut them from long grain and orient the grain of the plug with the stock.

Best,
David

Furniture repair people use shellac sticks of various colors and a hot blade to repair deep scratches and holes in furniture. I would think one of these folks could take care of your stock for very little cost.
Craig