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Joined: Jul 2010
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Sidelock
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Hi folks,

My second set of barrels I'm attempting to black have leaky ribs. I'm begining to think that this is pretty common or I'm just good a picking the wrong guns. Anyway...maybe I just stop and get them relaid although not bad it is irritating having small blooms of contamination in a couple of places.

I was hoping that after the first boiling it would just be hot/water but it takes 2 days to leak out and always waits until the rusting liquid is on and dried...then it leaks...

Are there any remedies out there? Is there a way to beat this problem or do I give up and get the ribs laid again? I've been told by more than one gunsmith that even when relaid they can still leak it makes me wonder if there are any tricks to working with the problem!

Cheers
T

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I have seen a set of electric heating rods used, but they were home-made & I have no idea where to get the materials. The idea was boil the barrels, use the heating rods to remove any water from between the ribs, card, reapply rusting soution, repeat. It worked well on the set I needed help with. They were just 1/2" diameter heating elements of some sort. Hopefully someone will know a source.

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You mean you boiled...took out the barrels and then some how applied the "heating rods" to the barrels to heat them up and evaporate the water held in the ribs?

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Be careful the more heat you apply the greater the chances of loosening the ribs even more. If you want to ,although I'm not a great fan of this you can vent the barrels,this is drilling a small hole in the bottom rib under the forend ,it is usually done at the back of the tail piece as far back as possible . If you look at anAyA [and others ]you will see they do this on all their guns and then plug the hole after blacking.This will allow water to drain out . Use a tapered wooden plug to prevent as much water getting in when the barrel is immersed.There are other places you could also drill a vent hole but I strongly advise caution,as will depend a lot on the way the barrel was made.

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I've considered building a small higher temp version of a damp box; a drying box that is thermostatically controlled to not exceed about 150-200 degrees to deal with this situation. I now just run a heat gun back and forth, keeping it moving since a heat gun can melt solder. Don't let it get any hotter than you can touch without getting burned and you will be well below the melting point of solder but plenty hot enough to drive out a small amount of moisture.

I would like to ask if anyone knows of other double makers, especially American, who drilled vent holes in lower ribs. I occasionally see this and generally assume they may have been redone at some time, but often there is no evidence of refinishing.


Originally Posted by Geoff Roznak
The NRA has proven itself unreliable and corrupt.
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I can't see any holes (or remember any) but I will have a proper look tomorrow. Even if they are there they "aint" working because of the linking I'm seeing along the side in some places. I have tried warming the barrel along the rib with a torch but as you say don't want to melt any solder and they still leaked...only 24hrs later...really annoying.

T

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Originally Posted By: keith
I would like to ask if anyone knows of other double makers, especially American, who drilled vent holes in lower ribs. I occasionally see this and generally assume they may have been redone at some time, but often there is no evidence of refinishing.


All of my Ithaca Flues guns have such holes.

Regarding Ballistix's problem: Given he has a known leak with crud seeping out, shouldn't he drill a hole anyway? How else is he going to squirt oil in there to mitigate rusting under the ribs when he is done with the job?


Last edited by RyanF; 10/27/10 06:45 PM.
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My RBL has a vent hole.


GMC(SW) - USN, Retired (1978-2001)


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Originally Posted By: keith


I would like to ask if anyone knows of other double makers, especially American, who drilled vent holes in lower ribs. I occasionally see this and generally assume they may have been redone at some time, but often there is no evidence of refinishing.


Most American doubles were manufactured with what are called in the trade "weep holes".....one hole in each of the two bottom rib sections...one in front of the barrel flats the other in front of the forearm attach iron....both centered close to the end of each independent rib section....

Hunter Arms, Fox, Ithaca and the rest, even the lowly Crescent all have these factory rib weep holes.....which were drilled by the factory to allow air to penetrate this void and help keep it dry between the tubes and stabilize the atmosphere between the tubes as the temperature changes.........also used for light occasional oiling etc.......

When I refinish barrels, I always clean very well the internal rib area through these holes with Acetone....then plug these holes with silicon during the rust process......then remove the silicon after completion........a paper clip is the most handy application device for the silicon.......or for cleaning out plugged holes.....which are commonly plugged with crud on customer guns.....

Without weep holes, the void between the barrels is generally a humid vacuum box which accelerates rust as the climate and temperature changes........kind of like a built in sweat box.....

Guns built without weep holes are assembled with the theory that the void is completely filled with solder.......we know with near certainty that this is not the case......

Best,


Doug



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I had similar trouble with a double I rust blued. I submerged it in gasoline for a day or two, then cleaned it with paint thinner and then acetone. Mine had the weep holes described and the last two cleaning soloutions were poured generously in the hole. After this treatment the bleed through stopped. I was glad it did because of the hassle to get it removed and relayed back on just didn't seem worth it for two little tiny unseen holes.

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