Your first stop should be to get a copy of Angier's 'Firearm Blueing and Browning'. In there you will find a huge amount of information on solutions (100's), preparation, finishing et al.
Some of the information is a little out of date (published in 1936) but with a little care most of it is very useful.
Many of the modern techniques like use of log-wood and etching with ferric chloride are barely mentioned but we can thank our American friends for most of the development of these 'new' methods!
In your first post you had the basic process pretty much sussed with the exception that you boil BEFORE carding.
There is no limit to how long you can boil for but as Angier states, everything has done what it is gonna do in 5-10 minutes.
A sweat box is not really required unless you are going into production, room temperature, a damp towel laid below and a simple tent to stop any airborn grease getting on to barrels is all that is required.
Many will argue about the need to fully plug the tubes. Personally I don't but I do make sure that they are perfectly dried inside after boiling, that no salt solution gets inside and I do lightly polish the bores with 800 W&D when I have finished the whole process.
Which solutions? Take your pick, they nearly all work pretty well.
For the record I use B12a page 80 for browning Damascus and C10k page 83 for blacking but they are pretty much interchangeable.
Degreasing: I use whiting, never solvents.
I allow 24 hours per rusting pass and reckon on having an excellent deep black in 7-10 passes and a good brown in 15-30 passes (but that is another story!).
Have fun!
