doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Recognizing a welded hook........

Is there any practical way to determine if a hook has been welded and refit? About the only way I've found--and I'm not convinced it's the best way--is to black the hook and check the fit to the pin. I've found some welded hooks to only have around 10% contact. What say you?

Joe: If the job is done correctly you would have nearly full contact. By blacking the hook and reassembling the barrel to the receiver you could determine the degree of contact and possibly see the weld/ base metal line. I don't see why it would be important to know how it was done as long as there is good contact. The traditional way of course was to dovetail a piece in and fit that down. I don't know that would be a superior fix, though, just more traditional and the way it was done before TIG.

Well...before TIG became the rage (with micro-laser not far behind) there was spray welding. The ones I've seen will leave a slight yellowish hue to the hook area. Its been a long time since I've seen a spray welded hook.

Dustin

Dustin,
Dr. Gaddy related that he was using late technology plasma spray for hook repair. He said the machine had good ability to control the buildup.

The heat effected zone will have a different chrystal structure than the base metal.
I look for: Waviness in the hook area, regardless of the level of polishing. Smoking will reveal lengthwise low spots that can't be explained by reaming. No one files perfectly.
Another lead is if you smoke the hook, the new scratches on the side of the lump will not be on the same radius as the older scratches on the lump.

HAZ shimmer is a giveaway. No hook scratches another. (Where'd they go? The pin has scratches, where's hook's matching scratches?)

The "wetting area" between the filler rod, the haz and the base metal is like a dull silver ribbon. Neither fish nor fowl (It's a different alloy), and doesn't belong there if the hook was never welded.

But all that is about a yes or no decision. If there is evidence of repair, then what? Negotiate a lower price? Question veracity of seller?
Peace of mind?

Even in the highest grade collectibles, there is provision for legitimate skilled, or workman-like repair.

Maybe Steve Bertram will photograph a welded hook, showing the heat effected zone blemishes.

I look for rounded-off edges to the hook, or an unevenness to the surface of the hook itself.

While you may be able to see a bit of a gap where the bead didn't completeley puddle with the base metal, as Gil pointed out if the refitting was properly done you are better off than you were with an off face action. It is not a question of the weld but the workmanship. would you rather find a piece of beer can in the hook? jmo Mark

I am not surprised that there is only 10% contact on many welded hooks. I welded many for lots of people over the years and I often get the request to only run a bead on the edges and leave the middle for a "witness" or just he opposite and weld the middle and leave the edges as a witness. Which only means to me that they are only making contact where the new weld is and using the old worn area to get it close. I could imagine that it is very difficult to get the orientation of the half round and achieve full contact all at the same time. One file stroke to much and you are screwed. As far as being able to tell if a hook has been welded it is nearly impossible if the weld has no flaws such as poor fusion line or undercutting.