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Neighbor said I should put it over the fireplace. I didn't see the point as I've become accustomed to thinking that guns over 50 (yrs. not dollars) will most likely work pretty well. Could be this is a gun that was used up without abuse as opposed to a lot that are hardly used and well-abused. Maybe I can trade it for the Stevens?

jack

Neighbor said I should put it over the fireplace. I didn't see the point as I've become accustomed to thinking that guns over 50 (yrs. not dollars) will most likely work pretty well. Could be this is a gun that was used up without abuse as opposed to a lot that are hardly used and well-abused. Maybe I can trade it for the Stevens?

jack

Question, Would a parker 12 ga made in 1910 have chambers compatible for modern 2 3/4 in shells.

Jack unless yours is different than any I have seen, you will have to remove the sears to take the stock off. the screws are all marked on the ends for one side, I forget whether right or left. the floorplate screw with the x goes in the middle in front of the trigger guard.

Jim A.

Must be catching Jack...yer posts are doubling.

Thanks Jim. I'll check that Gun Digest step-by-step more carefully on sear removal. I wonder if there's a setscrew bearing on the axle as it's protruding one side and below the surface of the frame on the other.

jack

Is it miss firing now ?

I can always tell when it's a rainy day in Memphis.

no setscrew on Parkers i have taken apart.they are a great Fox idea until you can not get them out!

Bobby, the first Utica Fox I worked on (over?), I believe I missed the setscrew. It was possible to drift out the axle right past the setscrew in the center bearing but I seem to remember it was scored by the screw.
jack

Addendum: As a bodger and tinkerer (altho occasionally I do try to educate myself--sometimes the hard way), it seems to me that just a bit of speculation about how things got this way is in order before the exploratory. I already tried the "used but not abused" scenario to explain the late cocking right side hammer and the jar-off same hammer yesterday. Despite shallow checkering lines the wood is good and undinged (except for one stick shellac fill on stock), flush to metal at bar and forend knuckle, no play in the hinge open or closed forend off, on face. But the barrels have been reblued and possibly restruck exterior as no sign of muzzle ring dents on outside and the forend iron and t-guard reblued. Because of the unseated trigger plate and the bad screw slots in same, I'm now wondering if the perpetrator of the redo was a clever cosmetician but at a loss to correct mechanical shortcomings. Could be more than one visit to the bench in 90 yrs. of course. Looks like I'm going to learn a bit about that cocking train. I hope Ted's hygenic solution is enuf to get her back on track for another few yrs. but have a suspicion that has been tried already.