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Joined: Dec 2008
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Originally Posted By: TwiceBarrel
Originally Posted By: RedofTx
But after reading ed goods post on bone-charcoal temps, now I'm wondering if the frame will be warped/brittle if I re-case color it. It that a risk you take when case-coloring ( the right and proper way ) ?

Any one else here had a reciever annealed and re-case colored the right way(bone charcoal) and how did it turn out?

thank you.



From watching Ed Good for a number of years I have developed an important rule to follow: Never and I mean never pay attention to anything that Snake Oil Salesman Ed Good has to say. He has ruined or caused to be ruined many good old guns that would have been worth more if he would have left them alone.




RedofTx:

Extremely "GOOD" advice from TwiceBarrel..........and dead ON........

Read "Look at another Ed Classic"....12-16-06 this forum.....lot's of data...this has been going on for years as TwiceBarrel says.....


Doug



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For me, Case Hardening (Color or otherwise), should be based on the type of steel used. If the parts were originally case hardened by the factory, then one can pretty much assume that these parts are made out of a low carbon or case hardening steel.

If the parts are blued, there is a good chance that the parts are made out of med/high carbon (thru hardening) steel.

Generally, what I have found is that if the trigger is one piece, ie..the trigger also acts as the sear, there is a high probability that the part is made out of med/high carbon steel and is thru hardened. If the trigger/sear combination is two pieces.. where the trigger cams against the sear, there is a good possibility that the trigger is case hardened, and the sear is thru hardened. …again I use the term generally…not always.

You should not case harden thru hardening steel. There is a much greater chance of warping, cracking or the steel becoming too brittle.

When Brownells came out with their Color Case Hardening kits, all sorts of folks got into doing Color Case Hardening, many don’t have a clue what they are actually doing to the steel, or how to do it properly. Some of these guys will CCH just about anything.

A good rule of thumb when contemplating getting something CCH, ask if there is anything that they won’t CCH, ask them if they will CCH a frame made out of 4041 or parts made out of 1095. If they become confused by the numbers, or if they say yes…just walk away.

V/R

Mike

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Obbsessed says, Purdey and Hollands cc there levers.Thats probobly because they are cast and wont take black/blue very well.

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tut Offline OP
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Was looking at photo's of the second Becker gun in and Older DGJ I dug up. Interesting to note that the top lever was certainly case colored on that particular gun.


foxes rule
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I haven't handled many high grades, but the majority of Fox SW's and A grades I've seen have CC toplevers.


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I believe I've seen cc levers on 311s


Don't sacrifice the future on the altar of today
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I believe I've seen cc levers on 311s


Don't sacrifice the future on the altar of today
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Don't sacrifice the future on the altar of today
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