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My 20G BSS with PG and BT is about that weight. Not a bad all day carry and very comfortable to shoot.

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Originally Posted By: Shotgunjones
Let's do the math... 6lb 10oz is 106oz. 6lb 4oz is 100oz even. Looks like the gun is 6% overweight then... Is that a big deal?


That's assuming your 6lb 4oz gun is the ideal weight for a 20ga. But by the traditional British formula (gun weight = 96 x shot weight) your 20ga. is a bit on the chunky side even for 1oz. loads, and 6lb. 10 oz. is significantly more so.


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Jack, that would make a 410 weigh 2.7lbs. The only British formula worth using is the one that makes up into Guiness Extra Stout.


"The price of good shotgunnery is constant practice" - Fred Kimble
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The British make game guns - the Irish make Guinness. Both are superb at their craft!


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Chuck H Offline OP
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Just a question, but isn't that formula really just about having enough gun inertia for comfortable recoil of a 1200fps load? It seems that formula would tell you a .410 should be 3lbs. and a 28ga would be 4.5 lbs. I don't think I have the skill to shoot guns that light very well.

Chuck H #18740 01/06/07 04:55 PM
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Oh yeah! You're right... got me there....


"The price of good shotgunnery is constant practice" - Fred Kimble
Chuck H #18741 01/06/07 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted By: Chuck H
Just a question, but isn't that formula really just about having enough gun inertia for comfortable recoil of a 1200fps load?


Right. And it explains why 28s and .410s have less apparent recoil than most other guns. Who would want a .410 that kicks like a 12ga.? But even though 96/1 is only a rule of thumb, I suspect most quality 20s hover close to the 6lb. mark, and a 6lb. 10oz. gun is relatively tubby for that gauge.


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The fact that the one ounce 20 has a longer shot column than the one ounce 12 cannot be disputed. The significance of this "imbalance" in the field is arguable. Assuming equivalent chokes you would not be able to demonstrate a significant difference on the pattern board unless you were willing to shoot upwards of 50 to 100 patterns. This is to say that a given 20 gauge pattern might look better than a given 12 ga pattern.

The other corollary myth is that every pellet added to a "square" payload ends up outside the useable pattern. This is the purest of bunk.

There is some basis for arguing that larger bores handle large shot sizes better. If you need to throw 1 3/8 oz so you can make 50 yd opportunities you might want #5 or #4. The 20 is not optimal. Neither is the 6lb 2.5" 12 ga Brit gun. But the one ounce 20 handles #6 just fine. #6s are adequate to 40 yds for about any upland purpose.

If you like a particular 6lb 10 oz 20 I say go for it. And if you believe that the weight will help you take more birds so much the better. I once foolishly passed on a 7# MX28. Guess the traditional British rule got the better of me that day.

Different people may see the weight vs shootability compromise differently. There is no single correct answer, British traditions notwithstanding.

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Chuck H Offline OP
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O.K., I'll let the cat out. The 20g in question is a Parker Repro apparently on a #1 frame. It's a consideration for substituting for the RBL I'm considering cancelling. My other option is a great Lefever 12g damascus graded gun of about the same weight as the Repro.

Chuck H #18780 01/06/07 09:48 PM
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Chuck - If the gun fits, will be easy to carry on an extended day's hunt, and is comfortable for shooting as few or many shots as you want to take afield or at the range, what exactly is the importance of less weight? If you like the gun, buy it and enjoy. No need to worry over someone else's rules about appropriate/inappropriate weight. Jay

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