Previous owner opened up the chokes in my pre-war "twin-single" Super. Previous owner put Briley thinwalls in my mid-sixties Super. Previous owner had the cones run out in my 1911 Fox BE. Bill probably should jump all over me for buying all this butchered junk. I did have Mike Orlen raise a dent in a '28 SW, open the full barrel a bit, and lengthen the cones. He also honed an '89 Remmy hammergun ("decarbonized" steel) and a Lefever damascus FE for me. So I have sinned. BUT, how about the model of 1911 SW Co. pin gun with the full&fuller, and the Merkel 200e with constrictions in the high 40s, the project Manufrance Ideal which I'm currently "butchering" has 48 pts. in the left barrel. All got nice steep cones and the Ideal I think has 2.5" chambers. And I have a couple of Brum no names with that ic/full situation. I have asked everybody and their cousin for recs on fiber and card wad loads for these guns; I've got everything I can find on this from Precision Reloading and Ballistic Products (and it ain't much). Please (Bill) help me make these guns shoot. I don't want to stand way back and I don't want doughnut patterns. (Yes, I have shot skeet with every gun and choke I have including a Flues 4e SBT choked IM. Damned fine gun after the out of bounds stake and amazingly good to me on Xers also). Seriously, if anyone here has the answer to this .719-.721" bore Euro stuff with the very fine nozzles, I'd love to hear how you attacked the problem and your pattern results. If you've a pet load and can share, add your disclaimer and be sure I'll check it pretty close before I load it. I will have to say that I have had second thoughts about long cones in old guns. I'd like to optimize for these rigs as they are with the stuff they were designed to shoot.
jack
