doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com boiling tank for rust bluing??

Thanks all. The piece of metal folded like wrapping paper sounds like the ticket to me, but where does one get pieces of metal like this?? I can't seem to find any...ideas??

RWG--I don't necessarily have plans, but I have an article with extensive photos and direction written by Mike Orlen--I'm pretty sure I still have it digitally. If it's helpful for you I should be able to send it to you if you shoot me an email address.
Dave

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Dave,
I used a piece of galvanized sheet tin that was actually used for fabricating heat runs in a house. The cold air return to the furnace is usually a rectangular sheet metal afair. That sheet metal is sold in pieces in home improvement stores and it actually comes in 'L' shaped half sections (one short and one long leg)anywhere from 3' to about 7' long. One of the bends is already done for you so just clamp your wooden form up against it and bring the other side up and you have the basic tank shape. Then form up the ends. Be sure to allow enough length to form the ends from the original piece to end up with a suitable finished tank length.

Not trying to be a pain, but....
Galvanized metal and flame are not good for ones health. The fumes given off create a whole new set of rules concerning ventilation, so at least don't do this in the house.
The galvanized sheet metal commonly used for duct work is fairly thin, 26-30 gauge. Considerably thinner than the 16 ga, black iron or stainless that make up my boiling tanks. My tanks discolor and even warp slightly at the spots where the flame is hottest. I wonder how long the thinner stuff will last before fatigue causes cracks, etc.
Yes, you may boil water in a paper cup, but how many times? Ditto, on the aluminum.
In my opinion, if you are going to do this more than once or twice, buy or have built a decent boiling tank. The cost per use on mine is down to almost nill. In fact, in a couple of cases, it is nill, because the tanks were made by the guys in our shop out of scrap, and as a favor.
JMO,
Jim

If you have no friends that have the capability to make a tank, find a sheetmetal fabrication shop with a pressbrake. Have them fold up a channel (like a raingutter) about 36" long (or whatever you think you need) out of any weldable 300 series stainless steel from about 16 gauge or thicker (mine is about 14 ga). Have them cut two endpieces to cap the ends. Take the parts to a welder that has a TIG machine and get him to weld it together. Now if you've saved $50 bucks in this whole mess, you'll surprise me.

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I used my tank made like this for may years before buying a good stainless one. But as you say, if you are going to do alot of this work, invest in a good sturdy tank. That's the best way to go. For a hobbyist that just wants to try it out, it's an inexpensive way to have a wack at it. I've never had any problems with the galvanizing and heat creating fumes of any sort. The steel can only get as hot as the water boiling above it, kind of like trying to solder a pipe with water inside of it..Getting the steel to anything close to a red heat will certainly cause the zinc to fume. That won't happen as long as the tank isn't allowed to boil dry. They are thin though as you pointed out, so you do get some flexing to the tank but when filled with water, it sits flat. Good support is needed underneath while heating and working as the weight of the water and parts is quite alot for the thin metal. Having the thing coming crashing down during your blueing is not something to look forward to. If you do eventually buy a better tank, the makeshift one can do service as a parts soak/cleaner tank, or a rinse tank.

What Chuck H said! Mine cost the equivalent of about US$50 at the time. Stainless rules. Many texts warn against using plated or galvanized tanks, citing contamination of the job, but obviously its not universal if you guys have been doing it successfully with rain guttering!

Re: "OK Who has plans for a rusting cabinet that they'll share?"

In our dry season (very low humidity), we use a length of 100mm PVC sewer-pipe, one end capped, stood vertical capped-end down. Place a moistened wad of rag in the bottom. Then suspend the swabbed barrel-group vertically in the tube, not touching any sides, using a wire or similar, and toss a cloth over the top to keep the humidity up inside. This works in our climate, 26 to 32 centigrade daytime max, 18 to 22 overnight min.

For the guy's wanting ideas about a humidity box. Look at http://www.winrest.com they have a great description of the one they use and some helpfull tips on rust bluing.
Paul

I purchased the the the blank iron tank from brownells and it seems to to the job just fine. I also purchased the corresponding tank lid. It comes with the weather stripping applied to the back of the lid to seal in the goodness while in production. After 4 cookings I removed the weather stripping as it started to fail. I now place a piece of tin foil over the tank and then place the lid over that to help stop evaporation in between down times. I figure why skimp. I built my own tank stand and brackets to hold the pipe heater that I also bought from Brownells. The pipe heater was way over priced and I have since secured the dimensions and will build the next one myself for about 40.00 and a few drill bits. If you wish i can post pictures of the stand. which cost about 50.00 to build and turned out really nice.

I skip the rust box entirely except for one very recalcitrant barrel. I alow 12 hrs between application and the boil and card. This works well with my life style. Once in the morning before leaving for the office, once in the evening around dinner time. If I were to leave it in a rust box for this long it would begin to pit.

http://www.winrest.com has the best info on the net that I have seen and I like their bluing agent.

Brent

Someone asked about plans for a cabinet One of the best double gun Smiths in the country, uses an old refrigerator, with wet newspapers in the bottom.. MDC