doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com source lever return spring Manufrance Ideal?

Been here a few days and already it's in pieces. Anyone know if the smith's kit of v-springs available from Brownells under 50 bucks would have a spring of a size and strength to sub for the one illustrated? Or am I going to have to make this hairpin? I believe the broken arm had an anti-friction eye or bulge which most probably originally contacted the top of the opening lever although that arm was contacting the underside top tang when I took it out. The broken piece was not in there so not the first exploratory on this little problem. All advice welcome with the exception of "Should have thought of that before you bought it!" I knew about it and I did think about it and I still bought it.

jack

Jack,

Looks like a clean gun otherwise. You might have to make that pin. I have seen one with a simple one leaf spring with one end solid in a small recess under the tang.

Well, it's a bit humble cf. to your 20 ga. but for the price, I think it's a refurb project that may yield a shooter. I may have to read a couple of those spring-making tutorials again. Keep looking for the Venice turps but don't let the nag store sell you a substitute or adulterated product for amalgamating pony toes. If you can't find it, I'll send you the address of manufacturer in Indiana who will sell and ship by the pint. Peter's slacum is probably what's going on this one as the big faces of the stock are a mess ( high water mark from slip-on, some dents and bruising).

jack

Jack Rowe makes it look spring building easy on that gunsmithing video.
I also bought a very cheap one for parts...and fun.
I got all my ingredients ordered for the slacum, we'll see how it works.

Call Brownell's tech dept. Have the dimensions ready and they can tell you which of theirs is closest. I got one for my first Parker(took an S-30)

Idéal Parts List may help give an idea of what is needed:


Can be seen larger here:
"Pieces"

Nº24: Ressort du levier.

JC

Oui, it's old No. vin-cat and does have the ball end. I'll give them a call Jim. Thanks to both James, John and Serban. I'll have to make the sling disconnect which I don't have from mild steel but no oh so careful tapering and filing and bending and hardening and tempering required on that one. JC had to tell me how you get the disconnect thru the gap in the barrel eye. Duuuuhhh!

jack

Hi Jack,

JC great work with the pic, last time I had a similar fix I enlarged the image on a photo copier to fit and roughed one out using that as a pattern (it was not a spring). Jack doubt you need it but i recorded my dissassembly and reassembly procedures a long time ago:
I have made the stock repairs to my ideal and have successfully reassembled her. I will describe very easy instructions below.
To disassemble remove barrels, then remove all screws (2 top tang, 1 lower bottom short tang,and bottom trigger plate). After removal of screws place thumb with pressure on top tang (to keep it from pushing upward) and retract lever that cocks and opens the action. With lever fully retracted remove trigger plate (down & rearward) gently release lever, tilt action downward (top tang upward) and remove.
Watch for v spring that is between top tang and lever (used to push lever downward when hammers are cocked) note that the v spring short leg is up and the longer leg is under the lever arm. Mine did fall out when the action was removed. To reassemble just go in reverse. Is actually very simple to do and the action is quite interesting to look at and appears very strong to me.
Jeff G.

My old diagram of the sling end maybe JC already sent it to you, JC could you post it again for some reason the copy you sent to me after scanning disappered I think I need to learn how to use a computer.
Thanks,
Jeff G.

Kirby Hoyt told me a trick to disassemble the Ideals a little easier. That is, one should unscrew the bar screws (8) that hold the coil springs (7) that power the firing pins and release that pressure from the cocking lever. You would need a special tool with two little legs that would fit into the two holes of the screws. You can cut it from a wider screwdriver head.