doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Cracked Receiver

Gun looks like it is in great shape. It would be a labor of love but I would bet that you could aneal the frame. Cut out the crack and tig weld it. Ream out the hinge pin hole and cocking rod holes. New hingpin and case harden. If it where mine or I could get it cheap I would try it.

Tanky, If I get the gun I will look at it thoroughly. The barrels, stock, forend are in great condition.
My thoughts were to have it annealed or use a carbide drill and drill two holes at the ends where the cocking rods are, drill past the crack and use a clearance drill for the one side and thread size for the other side and screw and draw the crack together. It would have to be at least a 1/4-20 thread or 1/4-28 thrd.

In thinking about what I just wrote it would be better if the receiver was annealed so no undo stress was put on the already crack.

Just received an email and gun is sold. It went for $200.00, a steal. It had a straight stock, the stock and trigger guard are worth more than that.

You would actually want the crack to be open. Welds shrink and you want the end product(when it cools down) to end up where it is suppose to be. You can't just weld it as is. The crack has to be V'd out so that the weld fuses into the hinge pin hole. The cocking rod holes will be totally filled. After welding it would have to be annealed again, then you could redrill the cocking rod holes and ream the hinge pin hole for a new pin. File and shape the frame,pollish and case harden. PROOF TEST and hope all your work wasn't wasted. I think it's possible.

Yea Id of given that 4 the wood alone...oh well someone got a deal....

I hate to see old guns parted out.

David,
I believe it's repairable, especially if it's a significant model/grade or provenance. If it's a common model/grade of no significant provenance, it's probably not worth the effort/money.

There's probably only a handful of gunsmiths around that would do a respectable job of this. You probably already know them.

I have two 12 gauge R frame receivers intact with all working parts- One is a O grade extractor gun so it has the first series roller cam extractor- with the milled pin slots in the receiver lug slot- easy to fill in, or ignore and use as is- this is from the second series when they moved from Syracuse to fulton, the front edges of the barrel lug and recess are radiused- The second is from a 1940 Field grade extrator gun, all parts- both guns were fired and tested before parting out- both have double triggers--

I know machining, tool and die welding and have welded a great number of Harley frames for custom bikes, all with a Miller 250 TIG- air cooled Linde torch with foot rheostat control- bench work, very precise. I know one way to stop a developed crack in a machining grade and case hardened steel component- drill a small hole a short distance from each end of the crack- when you pre-heat and add the interpass temperature in the HAZ, the heat stresses will follow the line of the crack, and when the reach the hole, will be "trapped there"- backstep you welds and allow to cool in heavy asbestos wraps- use Tempilstiks to determine the pre-welding heat on the area to be repaired- However, all metals transfer heat and thusly cool (also a transfering process) slightly differently- air hardening, oil hardening and water hardening steels for example- contact me via this website's famous PMS thingy, or call my cell phone numer, which be: 616-894-5019

What parts are you looking for? Barrels, receiver, buttstock- I have a good inventory of pre-1913 12 gauge LC Smith parts at present- advise via PMS or call my cell at 616-894-5019