doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com SxS Stocks, Cracking, & Bedding

Let's talk about damaging SxS stocks via shooting....

In the past several years I have cracked several SxS stocks, and one friend broke off an almost new Guerini O/U stock.

I suspect we are putting many more shells through our older SxS's in a year of shooting sporting clays, than an "average hunter" would have fired in a lifetime, back in the 1920's or 1920's. Often these 50 to 100 year old stocks are being damaged, and crack or break. And, we're generally only firing light 1 oz. target loads, not 1-1/2 oz. 3" goose-killers.

50 years of oil-soaking into the head/wrist area also contributes weakness.

The question then arises "how much shooting is too much for a vintage SxS?"

One solution is to reinforce the head and wrist area with epoxy. My "SxS Restorer" usually does so on older SxS's unless requested to leave them original. How many of you epoxy-reinforce the bedding areas of your SxS? Which areas?

Next question is whether boxlocks are less likely to crack than sidelocks? We have all seen many Elsies with cracks at the rear of the sideplates. Scalloped boxlocks (SKB's) seem particularly crack-prone in that area...I just had a Baker restored that looked fine on the outside, but we found it broken through at the interior screw hole (repaired during restoration). One of my Lefevers is similarly weak in that same area.

Last question is where does a SxS actually absorbs the recoil? Some think the vertical screw in the rear is particularly critical. I have seen many old SxS's with cracks along the interior screw hole. Should one glass bed this screw hole?

Do custom restockers epoxy the inside areas of their new buttstocks for reinforcement?

Some of you are much more knowledgable on this topic. I would enjoy reading your opinions, experience, and advice.

Jerry Goldstein
St. Louis, MO

I have an LCS Crown Grade that I worry about, even though it's been restocked in original config. I asked Freddy Brunner about glass bedding the head of the stock and he told me not to worry about it if the stock is well inletted. My broken stocks are all on boxlocks (Parkers and a Fox; were like that when I got them).

Thin grips, multiple areas of wood removal for the action and holes for sears, pins, screws and safety rods make the average stock a Swiss cheese affair. Old stocks with oil soaking into the wood, decades of drying, hundreds if not thousands of poundings from shells plus the odd dropping or falling on the gun makes it a wonder any stock prevails. If you want safe go plastic. Take reasonable care of the stock and shoot as light a loads as practical is about all you can do.

I do not think glass bedding is that great of an improvement. If it was, every factory stock made today would be done at the factory. I had every 3200 stock I shot glass bed with reinforcing to prevent cracks. I still had six out of 20 plus guns crack in less than 35 years. Given 75 years I suspect they all will crack. Had I not done it I am sure that they all would have cracked by now. The wood is too thin in the grip and the forces only have three small areas to rest against.

Good stock blank selection is the most important to me. Too many guns have grain flow in the wrist that is from bad to very bad. A very thin grip may feel great but it sure makes the grip prone to cracking. Poorly inletted stocks, that do not spread the forces over the maximum area are a fracture or crack waiting to happen. Some problems are just short comings of the basic design.

Most box locks that I have seen cracks are internal while most sidelock are external. Many box lock cracks I bet have been there for years before we see them. I think that flexing of the grip area translates into those many small cracks we see on both.

To me a gun is either shot or it becomes a decoration item. Maybe a high grade gun deserves to be saved as a decoration but not a well worn field grade. Let them be used and enjoyed. Repair as needed but not put away in a safe or closet.

Boxlocks break at the tang and sidelocks behind the lock plate. A friend glasses all the LC's he restocks and has never had one crqack.

In my opinion if the hand pin is properly tightened proper pressure of the top and bottom tang will be applied to the stock to prevent movement. Wood shrinkage often causes an issue, hand pin to tight things won't work.

Peter A.

Long Cracks in Smiths start at the head of the stock





then extend to the back of the inlet





Pics of repairs here
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/17090409
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/20576154

Not a double; but did you ever notice the very small head area of an A-5 type gun?