doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Thoughts on cleaning grime from vintage guns

I have the opportunity to purchase a modest but relatively rare gun from about 1930.

The gun is in good condition, but it was used a lot and the stock and checkering have a lot of grime. It will definately look better with some cleaning of the accumulated dirt.

If I clean it I would probably use a little Murphy's oil soap in water and lightly dampen a bath towel or dish towel. I would also brush the checkering with a soft brush and the same solution.

What do forum members think about cleaning grime from the wood of classic guns?

Lou

As far as I'm concerned you're not doing the gun any favors by leaving the wood grimy. I've heard both good and bad things about Murphys oil soap but I've personally never used it.
I much prefer a product called Kotton Kleanser which is safe and has been around for years. I usually will start out just applying some with a cloth and use a soft toothbrush for the checkering. If there's still stubborn grime I'll go to 0000 steel wool and a stiffer tooth brush. Mind you I am just cleaning the wood here and oil soaked wood with other problems is a whole different matter.
Jim

I use orange oil. Works great and doesn't harm a thing.

What is "orange oil"

Check out http://www.lcsmith.org/faq/cleangun2.html

Hi Lou,

As recommended by our esteemed member Smallbore, I have used alcohol
(the rubbing not the drinking kind) and a soft bronze brush for the checkering.
It works wonders on age old grime.

JC

Quote
"For stock clean up, use Murphy's Oil Soap if there is LOTS of grime and old flaking varnish. Scrub using a washcloth over and over until the cloth no longer picks up the black stuff. Use a toothbrush to scrub out the checkering. Murphy's Oil Soap will remove varnish, so use with caution."

Drew:
I agree with a lot of information in your linked article but the above is one of the reasons I use Kotton Klenzer and NOT Murphys oil.
This product will NOT remove varnish unless you abrade it off while cleaning with steel wool. I would be more than glad to clean the next grungy stock you get with Kotton Klenzer so you can see the results. I've used other products over the years but this seems to work the best. Additionally I've cleaned dozens of antique pieces of furniture and clock cases with it over the years with good results.
I also want to emphasize what Drew pointed out inre. to Flitzs Cleaner. While it is generally safe on blued surfaces it WILL destroy case coloring in short order. Flitzes Gun Wax on the other hand is safe on any surface and I regularly wax my firearms with it.
Jim

I had never heard of Kotton Klenzer. Their web site has some interesting products: http://kottonklenser.com/ . Wonder how well their "oil painting cleaner" would work on some of these old stocks....

I've used their oil painting cleaner on some inexpensive oils in the past and it does a good job of cleaning. However; On a painting of any significient value I would still bring it to a fine arts conservator.
This is roughly comparible to doing you own work on a double of modest value which I and many others here do on a regular basis. However; I for one wouldn't tackle something other than a trivial problem with a fine English double.
I'll take some before and after pictures the next time I clean something.
Jim

For really grungy stocks, I usually start by scrubbing with an old toothbrush and houshold ammonia. Ammonia will saponify oils and allow them to be rinsed off with water. I'm talking about surface oils and skin oils with grime that darkens wood and cakes up in checkering. As noted above, deeply oil soaked wood will require other methods. I've used isopropyl alcohol a lot as a second step, but apparently many stocks are finished with shellac, because I've had alcohol completely remove the finish several times. I have never even heard of Kotton Klenzer. Where do you buy it?