doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Preferred adhesive for shim repair??

Larry, if you fit it tight to the sides of the lug recess it won't fall out. In fact, you'll forget you even have it in there.

Send it to Steve Bertram and get it fixed the right way.

JMHO

Regaqrds, Gordon

Some guns aren't worth the money it takes to repair them the right way. A soldered shim will likely last the life of the shooter who installs it, which, is "right enough" on an old, shooter use gun. Feeler gauge is ground and hardened, and regular shim stock might be a better choice. There was a story about Nitro Lefevers in the DGJ a few issues ago, and how the guy had used one with pretty heavy loads with a brass shim that wasn't soldered for several decades. Thats a good, low buck repair.
Best,
Ted

What Ted said.

I have a nitro prooved BSA that I picked up in a pawnshop for $75.

After a welding a new trigger to the blade and some wood replacement, I had about $80 in it. I replaced the Scotch Tape shim every few hundred rounds.

It is now a safe queen but still not worth a 'proper' repair.

Do you put the tape/shim just on the bearing surface of the hook or do you wrap it around to the sides of the lug?

I am currently experimenting with brass shim and a Loctite adhesive but have not tried to wrap it around the side of the lug as I don't thin that there is sufficient clearance with the slot in the receiver.

Philbert, keep it just in the hook. No, there's not enough clearance for it to be anywhere else. Good luck!

Larry, best remedy is 50/50 solder and plain steel shim stock (NOT feeler gauge material). Just get a set of dowel punches for about ten bucks, find the diameter closest to your hook radius, tin the inside of the hook, install the shim in place, securing it with the dowel punch and a c-clamp, and heat the hook until the solder melts and the job is complete. Remove dowel punch when cooled and treat the hook with soda bicarb to neautralize the soldering acid. Very easy job and it works perfectly. You may want to fill the barrels with water and breach plugs --- neoprene corks which are available at any True Value Hardware store. This will prevent overheating the area adjacent to the hook. Not a big deal. I've done it twice now and it works to perfection. Chopper

Ed, sounds very much like the method Mr. Orlen posted up here a couple years ago?

Was it someone else? There were pictures...was very good

Thank you for bringing this up....easy, solid and not messing anything up going forward...IF you pay attention to the basics, as you outlined.

Thanks,
Mark

Hmmmm....not sure 50/50 is the best....could be 63/37 is best.

Chopperlump, doesn't solder require a gap to flow in? If the barrels are only 2 or 3 thousanths off face how do you get the solder thin enough to allow a shim? Trying to learn.....