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Forums10
Topics39,488
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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 28
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 28 |
I plan on replacing a broken firing pin on my AYA # 2 and would appreciate any tips on fitting a rough sized pin and proper hardening techniques.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,249 Likes: 6
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,249 Likes: 6 |
You mentioned fitting a rough sized pin and then hardening it. You lost me on that. Do you mean the factory sells oversized pins for fitting in the field?
If I were having a new pin made from scratch I'd specify using A2 machined to exact size, then hardened to Rockwell C 50-52. Most any fair sized machine shop can do that. Silvers
I AM SILVERS, NOT SLIVER = two different members. I'm in the northeast, the other member is in MT.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983 |
I have made several for myself, using the steel that Brownells sells, drill rods and other things that were available. Then case hardening them using Kasenit. I think if a firing pin is too hard, all the way through, it might be more likely to break. Case hardening keeps them from mushrooming, anytime soon. JMAO, of course.
> Jim Legg <
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 28
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 28 |
AYA makes a replacement pin that only needs to be trimed to the appropriate length, have the nose shaped and then be hardened.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,854 Likes: 118
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,854 Likes: 118 |
I would go along with Jim, but really if you use drill rod you shouldn't have to harden them at all. They are only striking copper or a light zinc coated metal.
David
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12 |
Another good alternative which avoids heat treating is to use a grade 8 bolt turned to size; very tough steel, indeed. I have a number of unhardened O-1 (drill rod) pins doing fine service. If you harden a high carbon steel pin, remember that you must also temper to trade a little hardness for a lot of toughness. Harden + temper = basic heat treat.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,971 Likes: 103
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,971 Likes: 103 |
A big problem I had with hardening finished pins is warpage. When they hit the oil they bent enough to be unusable. Prefer just using material that is already tough.
John McCain is my war hero.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12 |
Joe, did you put the pins into the oil tip first, straight in? Or, did you put them in sideways?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 792 Likes: 36
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 792 Likes: 36 |
I too have several unhardened drill rod pins that have held up through many thousands of rounds. I don't know about case hardening. I have hardened pins and tempered them like a spring, and they have not broken.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 28
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 28 |
The firing pins are in the mail. I do not plan on building a new pin out of drill rod or other material. Just wondering if anyone has advice on treating the pins once shaped. I spoke with Jack Rowe, who is providing the parts, and he indicated they needed to be hardened. I am thinking the tip should be heated to a cherry red and then quenched in oil. Then heat the pin to a dark straw and quench in oil. I have never heat treated metal parts before and I would appreciate info from anyone who has.
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