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Joined: Feb 2008
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Sidelock
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Joined: Feb 2008
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You can indeed heat Acraglas or other epoxies to thin them. This is especially helpful in cold weather, but heating also accelerates the curing time. Not usually a problem in cool weather, but a fast epoxy might actually kick over faster than you can get it where you want it. Hotter is faster and too hot will actually degrade the epoxy. If I need longer working time, I will thin with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol, sometimes warming a mixture thinned a bit with either solvent. I have always wondered how much thinning with solvent degrades performance after final cure.


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I use a lot of epoxies manufactured by Abatron, and they recommend thinning with xylol (aka xylene), available at good paint stores. I use lacquer thinner for cleanup, or for thinning when I am out of xylol. Xylol is a component of lacquer thinner.

Re how far you can thin epoxy before you degrade it, that depends on what you want the epoxy to accomplish. I often need to reconstitute punky architectural wood (as a result of termites, dry rot, etc.) and I have found that, for that purpose, thinner is definitely better. Thinning ratio depends on the viscosity of the original epoxy, but for my purposes I sometimes go with 2pts xylol to 1pt epoxy for the first few applications. I apply to the end grain whenever possible, and just keep applying as long as the wood will soak it up. Don't get the epoxy mix on any surface that will receive a transparent finish.

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I use a fluid epoxy called GIT-ROT sold in boating stores to repair dry rotted wood and give it strength. It would probably be good to srenghten checkering also though I have not tried it for that purpose. It is made by BoatLIFE div. of Life Industries Corporation PO Box 71789 Chareston,SC 29415-1789. All oil should be removed by a soaking in solvent. I flex the cracks open and pour in the epoxy. Clamp or use surgical tubing as sold by Brownells. Soaks in to the crack and is strong.

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