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Do you mix with walnut dust/shaving to repair a chip and gouge? I would like to use acra gel do i need something different?

use regular accraglass or a 2 part epoxy, not gel.
Steve

I agree, and do mix up a small batch and let it cure to check color match. You'll probably find you need to use walnut dust from a much lighter colored scrap than the stock you are repairing.

Mix up enough + a tad extra to do the job. Like the above said, get the right color. Take a small amount aside to cure & place the remainder in your freezer for storage. If the color isn't right on test batch, remove stored glass from freezer and alter to taste. Use as is or place back in freezer until you add enough color to match stock..

How do you know when you have enough dust? I did mix some with gel just to see how the color turns out. I only have the gel, guess i'll get regular?

BTW: thanks for your responses!

The moisture in the epoxy will darken the wood flour that you add to it. That is why you need to use just a wee bit, or flour made from a lighter wood than the surface you are filling.

Thanks, Ken for the freezer trick!

Had to use much lighter walnut to get a nice match. However it turned out a little flakey or speckeled. The dust was cut with a file.
I can store my extra glass in freezer? It won't harden/cure(besides being frozen)?

I've kept uncured epoxy in a freezer for several days without it hardening. I don't know really how long it will keep. As soon as it begins to warm up, it will continue curing. Heat accelerates the cure. Epoxy will slowly cure in low temps above freezing. Try making your walnut dust/flour with a belt or other power sander. Just don't go too fast or it will be scorched and thus too dark. I mix mine to a smooth paste that won't run. Too much dust makes it lumpy. Too little may be too thin to fill your gouge. Experiment with some scrap walnut before you do your gun, including sanding and applying finish. But I've been amazed at how much I've been able to steam out bad dents with broken wood fibers and thus skip or minimize filling. My method discovered by trial and error involves removing the finish around the damage, degreasing, and wetting the dent with rubbing alcohol. I allow this to really soak into the wood. Then when I apply my heating iron over a damp pad, I am generating steam/vaporized alcohol from deep within the wood rather than hoping my damp pad forces steam down into the wood. Usually takes several tries, but worth it if you can skip the filler.