doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Stock Finish - Your Take

What about the checkering with the Min-Wax? How do you deal with that part of the refinishing process?

binko

John, Why a vacuum box? Could not a vacuum BAG be used, the same as vacuum-bagging a boat during the fiberglass lay-up process?

Personally, I long ago settled on an English red finish, using Behlen's blood red stain, then about 20 coats of Tru-Oil, knocked back with 400-grit dry paper after every 7 or 8 coats. Once I've achieved the coverage I'm happy with, I put it away for at least a month, until it's gotten as hard as it's going to get. Then I knock the shine off it with 0000 steel wool, used very judiciously, until I end up with a satin finish. I do not, and would not, own a gun that I don't hunt and shoot with. I've never had a problem in maintaining a Tru-oil finish, rain or shine.

What do you mean "min wax on poly?" Is that a finish over a finish?

Nope, I meant Kelvin. Bottomed out the thermometer the other morning, so I figure it had to be colder than a witches...hence my "off the charts" temp rating, always wanted to see absolute zero from the comfort and privacy of my living room. Purely subjective, but I'm sure there's a grain of truth to it:) (Not unlike this duscussion) Reality it was only -32 F, but who's counting?

I'd post the picture of my frozen beard, but already got made fun of on another board for my visible (and frozen) nose hairs, and you good folks just don't need to be subjected to that.

I have no desire to refinish my stocks every time I'm out in the rain...or even every season. My guns are fancy by my standards but they are not high-grade and while well-cared for they donot get babied--for me, a stock finish should be relatively durable...barring anything catastrophic I think a finish should last several years at the inside before I need to redo it or touch it up.

Above comments about the emotion involved seem spot on to me--I invest a lot of my time and energy in this, so I want to like my finish in all respects in addition to gaining function. It won't ever be perfect, but we all have different wants and needs and there's no reason any of us should want or need exactly the same thing. And we haven't even gotten to aesthetics yet...

It's only the black body effect that keeps upstate NY from reaching absolute zero. But wind chill makes up for that. I like thinned Tru-Oil; works at low temps.

IMO: You can enhance the weather proofing and longevity of any stock finish by applying a good wax to it before outdoor use. I've personally used Flitz's Gun Wax with good results and have had a couple of guns survive a really good drenching without requiring a refinish.
Jim

I'm experimenting with a new finish I call "Cheater's Slakkum." It consists of boiled linseed oil, Japan Drier and just a dash of spar varnish thinned in turpentine. It gives a softer "glow" than Tru-oil and can be rubbed on more thinly for the final coat without leaving streaks. I rubbed this over Min-Wax Wood Finish (basically a stain/sealer) that was applied to the stock years ago and I didn't want to strip for sentimental reasons. The "Cheaters" built up more rapidly than I expected, presumably because of the sealing effect of the Min-Wax. For the ultimate in cheating, a neutral colored sealer might work better -- linseed darkens wood considerably, especially if it's an old can that has sat in your garage for 20 years and developed a lot of character.

Tru-oil works well but you have to live with the fact that it's a compromise between linseed oil and modern finishes. Near as I can tell, it's just a blend of linseed and polyurethane, thinned with mineral spirits. Most of the commercial "tung oil finishes" are about the same thing, based on the smell and they way they handle. I think Tru is designed to dry relatively fast so that it's possible to finish a stock with three or four coats over a weekend if you have to.

My Question?

Minwax Wipe-on Poly is a commercially available finish.

Ok...Thanks.....