doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Sear/ Trigger blade engagement issue (Fox)?

I have refit (most of the way) a new/used stock on a Sterlingworth. The fit appears good and the sears move freely without any impingement on the wood. But when the hammers are cocked and the safety is taken off, the RIGHT hammer releases. The left is OK. That seems like minimal sear engagement caused by too much pressure from the front (right)trigger blade.
The new stock required a longer bolt through the two tangs so it would seem the trigger blades would be LESS likely to sit hard on the sears than before. I'm not sure where to go with this one. Thank you in advance for your opinions!

Gil,
As you said, there seems to be minimal sear engagement. It follows that something is interfering with it's travel. When I've encountered hair sets, it's always related to some foreign material under the trigger (actually under the trigger return spring) preventing it from moving fully forward so the sear leg can move the required amount. You haven't changed the trigger return spring, so I can't see how the pressure could have increased. Seems it has to be something interfering with the sear movement. Does the trigger move freely, especially forward, after firing?

Take the two triggers right out of the trigger plate and put the gun back together. Cock it and see if the hammer slips off of the sear w/o any help from the missing trigger.
If it holds,,then take a narrow metal instrument like one of those 6" machinists rulers and slide it up into the right trigger slot in the trigger plate and trip the sear. Get a feel for the engagement,,if it's barely holding or if it feels secure.
If it trips by itself or feels just barely engaged, then it's probably the sear itself.
If it seems OK, then it's probably the trigger blade causing the problem,,binding on the wood, etc.

Also check the sear nose and hammer notch. The hammer notch can load up with debris easily during a restock fit like this as it is cut quite deep to get a clean edge.

Also remember that even though the sears & triggers would seem to be farther apart w/the longer tang screw(s) the 2 tang screws can bend the tangs a tremendous amount in their final tightening and reallign the parts in such a way to cause problems.

I have found the only way to properly check the hammer and sear engagement and assure their proper function is to remove the stock and then reinstall the sears and cock the action--both hammers in the firing position--remove the barrels. Now with the trigger plate removed place a hard wood block over each firing pin hole and one by one push down on the sear arm (at the point the trigger blades contact) it should take some downward force to release a properly engaged hammer/sear--it should be smooth and crisp. If this is okay cock the hammers and carefully install the trigger plate tightening the front trigger plate screw snugly, the tang screw (the longest one) to where its end is level with the top tang (behind the safety slider) and then put in the trigger plate wedge screw snugly--until the tang screw slightly loosens. With the hammers cocked and the safety on inspect the trigger blades and the trigger blade/sear interface:

1. With the safety on there should be a slight gap
(0.02 inch) between the trigger blades and the
sears. This space should be approximately the same
for both trigger blade/sear interfaces. When the
safety is off the only pressure on the sears will
be a slight force of the trigger spring.

2. If with the safety on the trigger blades/sears are
touching then they are likely putting pressure on
the sears and possibly partially moving the sear/
hammer interface closer to releasing the
hammer(s)--a dangerous condition. This can be
caused by the sear arms being bent or the trigger
blades being improperly adjusted (filed).

I now use this check after purchasing a CE grade Fox that had no trigger blade/sear gap, bent sears and minimal hammer/sear engagement--the hammer notch and sear engagement points were crudely filed. . I believe someone was trying to reduce trigger pull forces. I have found that if the action is as described in #1 above, without the stock, then finding the clearance problem with the stock installed is easily solved.

Fox SXS

Fox SXS

That was about as well written, step by step guide for Fox trigger function and trouble shooting as I have seen on this site. I even printed it out to save.

Gil, The front part of the hammer may be touching the stock when cocked and not allowing it to go back far enough. I have run into this problem several times whem making a new stock. Just remove a little wood . Bobby

Thank you for the thoughtful replies!

Fox SxS description is excellent. I assumed (maybe shouldn't have!) that the action functioned correctly before the replacement stock was fitted.
I wouldn't be looking for a problem that didn't exist before the 'new' stock came on the scene and the tangs don't always lay in the same position out of the stock as they do once they are tightened up in the wood anyway.
As he says there should always be some slack movement (under trigger spring pressure only) between the trigger blades and the sear bars with the safety off. The safety 'on' should cam the triggers hard down and off the sears.
'bbman3' may have the simple answer too with the hammer being pinched by the new wood a bit.
Lots of little things to check for..
Keep us posted!!

Kutter: You were right; it worked just fine until fitting the new stock. Thanks for the response!