Ian,
I bought a Nikon D50, Nikon flash SB800, and a remote cord that allows me to shut off the built-in camera flash and position the SB800 flash. This setup uses the lightmeter in the camera to control the flash so you can point the flash any direction and even bounce the flash off of walls and ceilings to soften the light. The flash can also be positioned to cast the light from the side/top/back or wherever to emphasize details.

With the newer D80 (10 mpxl)coming out soon, the D50 (6 mpxl) is already dropping in price. Unfortunately, the Nikon lenses are staying up there. I have a 60mm Macro-Nikkor for the close stuff and a variety of other lenses for the general work. I also have two point-n-shoots that I sometimes use for quick pics to post.