Fred/RevDrew, Have taken numerous digital pictures of the glassbedding projects but the technical difficulties of good close,i.e. visible work keep defeating me. Further I'm an annalog guy trapped in the digital age and am computer challenged as to putting what I have on line. With that said, the glass bedding I do uses LOTS of release compound when reassembling the entire action. I also use a Dremel tool and burr bit to "undermine", particularly the rear lock contact surfaces. I have used Ken Hurst's "Krazy Glue painting" technique as a first step in the entire bedding process. It does a good job of "stablizing" fragile sidelock stock heads. I go beyond it in the 2nd/3rd step and do the undermining and pack the "channels" with Acra-glas. I reassemble the entire receiver/barrels/forend and then over the next 2-4 hours test the action/hammers for function. Time is temperature related as to how fast the glass sets up. When it is partially "cured"/no longer gooey, I take the entire action apart and let the semi-solid glass set-up for 24 hours. Obviously one wipes off excess glass that squeezes out during the process. If you have done rifle actions it is just like glassing the rear tang and area around the trigger mechanism. If you mess it up and get the "solid block" problem, judicious application of heat like a soldering iron will allow you to seperate the metal from the wood. First time it is a bit scary but thereafter it goes pretty easy. Good Luck, BILL
