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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 408 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 408 Likes: 2 |
Hal, Find some walnut close to your color and take a hand plane and shave off some curls long enough for your job. Put some good wood glue on them like Titebond waterproof(it will soak and soften them). Then just layer them to the stock like ply wood and clamp them in place. Fit the stock to the gun. This is one way to "grow" wood back that is gone. The layers look like the grain of the wood.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 721
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 721 |
Hal,
If you go with the epoxy you might use a powdered dye. I believe most wood working stores carry them. I have burnt umber which can be a good watch if you work in the powder a little bit at a time. If you don't have a wood working stor near by e-mail me your address and I'll send you a small baggie of powder; I have a couple lifetime's worth.
Phil
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,660 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,660 Likes: 7 |
Yeti, you did a helluva job, I can't see it!
JC
"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance."ť Charles Darwin
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 454 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 454 Likes: 4 |
I checked on Acraglas yesterday, and it would cost me almost $40 for the smallest 4 oz kit that I would need less than a quarter teaspoon of. I asked my local gunsmith and he said for such work he uses slow cure epoxy. What kind of dyes will mix with epoxy? I assume things like brown shoe polish and common oil stains are incompatible. Maybe the fill area is so narrow that I would need no colorant at all? Acraglass from Brownell's #081-015-004 is $14.95.
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,082
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,082 |
I have never had good luck with using saw dust to hide a flaw. It always looks like I used saw dust to hide a flaw. I have had much better luck either fitting a piece of wood or using AccraGlass. If this were my hunting gun, I would use AccraGlass. JMHO. I agree and I agree.
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Gunny will Titebond adhere to dry Superglue or should I try and remove it?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,774 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,774 Likes: 1 |
Hal, I found several coats of Danish oil is very good for wet conditions. It will last for many years before it will make you to redone stock again.
Geno.
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I've used Johnson's paste wax in the past, but have not heard of Danish oil. How is it formulated?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,774 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,774 Likes: 1 |
It's mix polymerized Tung Oil with some more ingredients. I use DO from Rustin's UK.
I heard some people call polymerized Linseed Oil as DO, but the real one based on Tung oil.
It penetrates deep inside wood and after several coats it looks like nice satin finish.
I fixed outdoor wood table with DO and after 6 years it looks like new.
Geno.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,786 Likes: 673
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,786 Likes: 673 |
Hal, if you like Gunnys' idea of using the thin plane curls, I would modify that a bit and glue them with epoxy rather than Titebond. I'm assuming he missed the part about you having sealed the wood with superglue, and you won't be able to remove the superglue without removing even more wood. Titebond is very strong where it can penetrate the pores of wood, but not so good on a non-porous surface. Multiple layers of plane chips and epoxy may end up darker than you wish, so I'd go with a single over-size piece of closely matching wood and shave that down to the final fit you want.
Voting for anti-gun Democrats is dumber than giving treats to a dog that shits on a Persian Rug
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