doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Any filler that will work?

I just finished inletting a stock for a Nitro Special. I made the mistake of not doing the tangs separately and ended up with a small gap on the front of both sides of the upper tang. I saved some of the fine file dust. I also coated the exposed bearing surfaces of the stock with Superglue. Is there any way to mix this dust with epoxy and fill in the gaps? Any other methods? This is a hunting gun that will get wet repeatedly.

I have never had good luck with using saw dust to hide a flaw. It always looks like I used saw dust to hide a flaw. I have had much better luck either fitting a piece of wood or using AccraGlass. If this were my hunting gun, I would use AccraGlass. JMHO.

If it is a medium brown walnut, straight Acra-Glass Gel will do a good job.

OB

If I understand you correctly, the rear of the tang is keeping the frame from seating deeply enough in the stock. If this is correct, why not inlet he frame (the boss through which the stock bolt passes) more deeply into the stock and inlet the head of the stock into the frame until it's properly seated?
If I misunderstood please forget every thing after "If I understand..."

Cary

I'm with Dave Katt. Here's some pics of a sliver of wood added to fill the gap. This can be pretty invisible if the stock surface is well proud of final level when the sliver is added, so the epoxy mess is sanded off - just leaving a very thin black line. Pesky tang inletting

The fix is on the bottom tang


The rectangles line shows the epoxy blackened sliver and the ditdot line shows where the fix line is barely visible.


Photoshopped to better show the fix

Thanks guys.

The voids are only about 1/32nd inch wide and taper to zero about an inch back toward the safety, so I will buy some AcraGlass Gel. Does it come in different shades? I assume it will stick nicely to the dry superglue I used to seal the wood. Polyeurethane best for a gun that will get wet a lot or?

Best place to buy Acraglass?

Acraglass is off white but has a strong stain that comes with it. With the gap you are describing it won't take a teaspoon full. MAKE SURE that you use release agent on any surface that might get glass on it and I always cover the threads(male & female) on the through bolt. Go easy with the stain, add tiny amounts until you get a match. For a hard working gun I use poly cut with mineral spirits (20 %) and just wipe the numerous coats on. This is not a classic finish but it is tough.
bill

Thanks Bill. I'll use your method. Over the years, I've found that oil finishes just cant take water, especially the alkali water I hunt in that is sometimes stronger than seawater. The only metal that will be touching the acraglass will be the forward inch of the upper tang. I assume it will bond nicely with dry superglue.

Not that it matters to Hal, but I neglected to mention a key point in my post;
The "sliver" is glued in well oversized and a minor re-inletting is done on the sliver.

I checked on Acraglas yesterday, and it would cost me almost $40 for the smallest 4 oz kit that I would need less than a quarter teaspoon of. I asked my local gunsmith and he said for such work he uses slow cure epoxy. What kind of dyes will mix with epoxy? I assume things like brown shoe polish and common oil stains are incompatible. Maybe the fill area is so narrow that I would need no colorant at all?