doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Cleaning the Locks and Receiver

I have a graded Baker (R or S) that I am cleaning up. I have the stock removed, the side plates off and the trigger plate removed. I have left all the pins and bits and parts withing the receiver where they are. My question is what do you recommend to remove the gunk, oil and varnish from with in. I started with CLP Break Free, this seems to work some using a toothbrush, is there something else I can use for this?
Should I try to disassemble further?
The receiver is not rusted, but there is not a lick of case anywhere, either it was removed a long time ago or it was never there. What would you recommend I use to clean this up without removing the engraving?

A good soak in Mineral Spirits along with a good going over with a GI Toothbrush would be my approach, actually I would put it in the old Parts Washer - but you probably do have one of those.

Brownells sells a gun parts cleaner called D'solve which works well. Brake parts cleaner or lacquer thinner are much more potent solvents than the CLP Break Free you tried, but more dangerous and flammable too. They will leave the steel completely degreased so lubrication afterwards is necessary to prevent rust. Total disassembly usually isn't necessary and runs the risk of losing parts or damaging screw heads. The case hardening is most probably there... only the colors have faded. Case hardening is only a few thousands deep but remains after the colors fade from handling and sunlight. A light buffing with Flitz or Wenol metal polish would make your shiny gun shinier, if that's what you're after. I'm sure some would recommend complete refinishing, but I personally prefer not to do that on a gun that is used but not abused. A bad refinish will destroy your Bakers' value and a really good restoration will cost more than its' value. I suppose there is some value in enjoying a gun that looks totally new though.

Quick note. Keith is very right on the case hadening still being present after the color is gone. One point, though. Case color is not photosensitive and does not fade in sunlight. It fades from the abrasion of handling. Thus, a clear coat protectant will shield it from abrasion and it will not fade, even though light can get into it.

Gentlemen,
Thank you. I will give it a good soak in lacquer thinner.
This is a newly started project. Not so much a restore just a cleaning. Stock is next.
I may also re-black the barrels for more contrast with the Crolle pattern, it is so lovely.
So I will be back with more questions.
Thank you

I have taken actions like you describe and boiled them in a solution of TSP (tri-sodium-phosphate, a degreaser available in the paint dept. of your local hardware store.)

I brush them out as best as possible and boil again in clean water, blow it out and drop the whole deal into water displacing oil and let it sit overnight. Blow off the excess oil and wipe down.

Rocketman, I have learned not to beleive everything I read, but have read that case colors do fade from exposure to sunlight so many times that I took it to be true. Additionally, I never read anything to the contrary, so I'd appreciate a source of testing or proof to the contrary. I don't doubt you and have often wondered about the actual mechanics of case fading, having seen quite a few guns with virtually no case color in exposed areas and the rest of the gun in pristine condition with little outward sign of excessive handling. In fact, I have an L. C. Smith 20 ga. Ideal grade with what I beleive is excellent original barrel, guard, and stock finish and hardly a trace of case color. I thought perhaps someone in the past may have intentionally removed those nasty blotchy colors. I'm here to learn more than to teach... I just hope I can pass on a few things on to those who may be a grade or two behind me. Thanks, Keith

OK fellows I will let you in on one of my little tricks, the stuff is cheap, readily available and it's the simplest and most effective way I've found to clean an old curded up action,...or any part by that matter it will bring loose rust out of the cavities as well as break down all the old curded grease and oil paint or shellac pretty fast and will not affect the case colors or the metal,..and boy does it ever do nice job of cleaning up old engraving!....It will remove everything except what you want left alone
Sounds too good to be true?,...it's readily available,...matter of fact some of you might even have some at home already

You will might need rubber gloves ( I don't bother I try not to get it on my hands ) an old toothbrush and maybe a couple of small plastic bore brushes to get into the small places, an old stainless cooking pot or small plastic tub will do to hold all your parts.
I disassemble all the parts and put them in the pot,...I do all this inside the sink ,....take your "easy off etra strength oven cleaner",...lemon scented if you prefer! ..and spray all and every part making sure all surfaces have been covered with the stuff, inside and out.... then go and do something else for 20 minutes.
I use the liquid type because I find the aerosol disperses too many fumes,...you want to keep your nose at somewhat of a distance,...you'll know what I mean
When you get back to your parts you'll notice all the brown crud has started to break up,...take the brushes and rub the stuff all over again,...no need to re-spray just use what has run down to the bottom of the pot, and leave for another 20 min
When you come back it should all be loosened up, if not repeat the brushing,...then put the pot under the hot tap and fill with hot water,..since I don't like putting this stuff down my septic system I will dispose of the first and dirtiest water in a different manner,..then return the pot and its contents to the tap and run under the hot tap till the water is clear,....drain the water and blow the hot metal parts with compressed air making sure all the water is out of all the little holes,...parts will dry instantly, at this point you can inspect to see if they're clean all that's left to do is polish or stone the internals as required and re-oil to protect.
I learned the versatility of the stuff years ago when we needed a way to clean our carbide table saw blades that were caked up with sap and wood resin after a day lumber cutting,...we just sprayed the foam type stuff on them and left overnight,..they looked and cut as good as new the next morning


CJ

CJ: You say to "spray" it but say you prefer the liquid type, over the aerosol type. Not clear what you mean. Thanks!

I imagine it comes in one of those bottles with a trigger pump.

JC