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Joined: Jan 2004
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Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 49 |
I recently purchased a CE Grade Ansley Fox manufactured in 1909. it has a 14XXX serial number.
Apparently the forearm had been dropped resulting in damage to one side bead (matches bead on lower barrel edge), cocking lug and receiver mating surface/edges. A gunsmith has repaired the majority of the damage and when all repair is complete I would like to restore the forearm metal to its original condition.
The trigger guard and forearm frame metal are blued (the trigger latch and frame are case hardened). I would appreciate inputs on the proper bluing type/method/ color to have applied to the forearm frame.
Thanks for your inputs and assistance
FOX SXS
Last edited by FOX SXS; 12/18/07 05:50 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 835 Likes: 18 |
They were niter blued,...My C grade of the same era has also a nitre blued top lever (as well as the trigger guard and fore end) But some fore ends were also case coloured
Best CJ
Last edited by C. J. Opacak; 12/19/07 01:02 PM.
The taste of poor quality lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.........
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Joined: Jan 2004
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Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 49 |
CJ
Thanks for the expedient response. I'll see if my gunsmith has the ability to do an authentic Niter blue.
FOX SXS
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Joined: Jan 2002
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,249 Likes: 6 |
With all due respect, maybe you'll want to think about this some more before going ahead with nitre blueing on the forearm iron. Certainly the irons on early graded guns were blued... but who's to say it was nitre and not a rust blue? From the standpoint of durablity and corrosion resistance, rust blue is certainly a better choice because it's a chemical reaction (oxide) imparted to the surface. I'm fairly sure the small Fox parts may have been nitre blued but when the factory was rust bluing barrels, why wouldn't they also rust blue the larger parts like the forearm iron? Silvers
I AM SILVERS, NOT SLIVER = two different members. I'm in the northeast, the other member is in MT.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,429 Likes: 35
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,429 Likes: 35 |
With all due respect to CJ and Silvers, if it was blued, I'd bet it was charcoal blued. Doug Turnbull offers that service.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 835 Likes: 18 |
Steven, I stand corrected, I had a better look at the gun last night and it appears to be charcoal blued
I use the NITER bluing method as taught to me by Oscar Gaddy using Saltpeter with very similar results,...this is not the stuff that Brownell's sells, according to the late Dr. Gaddy all Parker trigger guards were done this way,...I simply assumed that Fox would have also used the method
CJ
The taste of poor quality lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.........
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 835 Likes: 18
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 835 Likes: 18 |
Silvers, I believe most of the smaller parts were colored with "heat" either charcoal or niter or perhaps another method I'm not familiar with because it was more efficient and cost effective to do so ,...barrels were rust blued because they were soft soldered,....there was no other alternative
The other thing that stands out in all these older guns is that the bluing on guards and irons is usualy worn off long before the bluing on the bbls,... this along with the high luster they display, (especially some of the trigger guards) is to me good indication they were perhaps done a different way
CJ
Last edited by C. J. Opacak; 12/19/07 02:02 PM.
The taste of poor quality lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.........
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,249 Likes: 6
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,249 Likes: 6 |
CJ, thanks for your thoughful answer. Makes sense. Silvers
I AM SILVERS, NOT SLIVER = two different members. I'm in the northeast, the other member is in MT.
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