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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 526 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 526 Likes: 3 |
While reading an old book (1867) I came across several recipes for browning gun barrels.
I was wondering what the modern names for these ingredients are.
1. Spirits of nitre
2. Corrosive sublimate
3. Blue vitriol
4. Tincture of steel
5. Tincture of iron
6. Copperas
7. Black brimstone
Thanks, Pete
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 236
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 236 |
Why don't you google or yahoo each of the ingredients and get first hand information? If this is more than an academic exrecise and you want to mix up your own solution I have to tell you in today's world you're going to have trouble buying them without going into hazardous materials regs, requests for how you're going to dispose of the excess, etc.
I've been down this road before. You're better off just buying a prepared browning solution like Laurel Mtn, etc.
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Junior Member
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Posts: 4,598
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,598 |
Google does wonders...
Spirits of Nitre = It is obtained by the distillation of alcohol with nitric and sulphuric acids. Banned by the FDA as useless and dangerous.
Corrosive Sublimate = BiChloride of Mercury. It is one of the most toxic forms of mercury because it is more soluble than most in water. It was used as a reagent in archaic photographic processes. It can kill you.
Blue Vitriol = Alum and copper sulfate
Tincture of Steel =Ferric or Iron Chloride in Grain Alcohol. The substance decomposes on heating above 200°C producing toxic and corrosive gases including chlorine and hydrogen chloride.
Tincture of Iron = Ferric Chloride, obtained as dark-green, lustrous crystals by heating iron in Chlorine. A good way to produce Chlorine gas.
Copperas = Iron Sulfate
Black brimstone = some form of sulfur?
Please let me know when you decide to tinker with this recipe. I would like to make travel plans in advance, perhaps Europe...
Pete
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 526 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 526 Likes: 3 |
Thanks, Joe, Bill and Pete.
I think I'll pass on these recipes
Pete
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
I am a Pharmacist and also do Browning.Many of these chemicals we either used in Rx school or shortly after in compounding, HOWEVER, many are inactive in browning solutions as Dr. Gaddy and Angiers found. I would simply use Dr. Gaddy's formula which will short circuit having to find some of these that you don't need anyhow.
Synonyms below:
Ethyl Nitrite solution(Inactive)
Mercuric Chloride
Copper Sulfate()Probably inactive)
Ferric Chloride
Tincture of Ferric Chloride
Ferrous Sulfate (Use with Logwood bath)
Sulfur(Inactive)
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
This is the Gaddy Formula which works very well and excludes inactive chemicals:
Rust Bluing Formula per Oscar Gaddy Stock Solution; dilute 1:1 … and up to 1:8 for final rustings. To make 125 ml Stock Solution:
Conc. HNO3 ..... 3.22 ml
Hg2Cl2 (Mercuric chloride -- DEADLY poison) .... 6.25 gms
C2H5OH ..... 3.25 ml
Fe2Cl3 ..... 5 ml
H2O ..... to make 125 ml
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Parker Factory Process Adapted by Oscar Gaddy: (DGJ 1997 #2, #3 & 2003 #1)
1. Prep as in Oscar’s original process [next page], Steps 1 – 7
2. “Light” Etch in “mild” Fe2Cl3 solution [I used 15%, it was hard to maintain even results in hi ambient temps of FL – Oscar later moved down to ~ 10%, some report using 7.5%]
3. Rust and card once daily, for 7 to 10 days, as in Oscar’s original process, but no boiling (wet card?) [I dry carded with 0.006 wire wheel, need to check speed, 0.005 or .004 better]
4. Only after 7 to 10 passes, plug bores with rubber stoppers (one in each bore with stainless, ¼,” 90 o degree-bent tube for pressure relief), then boil 5 minutes, in solution of 3.5 ltrs water with 60 cc logwood powder + 30 cc FeSO4 . 7 H2O powder (copperas)
5. Rinse well in cold water
6. Soak ~ 5 minutes in solution of ~ 3.5 ltrs water with 15 cc FeSO4 powder (concentration not critical) – a finger should be able to rub to show light metal with contrast
7. Scrub with CaCO3 powder picked up on wet towel (paper or cloth)
8. Job should look good, but can be improved if desired by rusting and carding 2 or 3 more times; if that is done repeat final steps 4 thru 7. [Parker factory on notes 2nd following page]
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