|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
1 members (1 invisible),
1,139
guests, and
4
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics39,514
Posts562,221
Members14,590
|
Most Online9,918 Jul 28th, 2025
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,002
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,002 |
Pheasant hunting with my dad's Remington Model 11 this past week, the vent rib let go on the rear half of the barrel, right after I fired three shots at a fast disappearing and unscathed South Dakota rooster. It may be that the only reason it hasn't come off entirely is that the gun has a Poly-choke at the muzzle. No damage seems to have occurred to the rib, so how serious is this problem? How was it attached in the first place, and can a good gunsmith re-adhere it without rebluing the barrel? What can I expect to pay? The gun has little market value but high sentimental value. Your advice will be appreciated as always. TT
"The very acme of duck shooting is a big 10, taking ducks in pass shooting only." - Charles Askins
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,064
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,064 |
Should be an easy enough job to resolder it. Protect the sides around the rib with chalk or other no-stick solder solution, wire the rib down and flow some solder into the joint. Can't guarantee that you won't need a reblue but even if you do it's an easy job for anyone with a rust blue tank. Good luck. Chops
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 25
Junior Member
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 25 |
TT,
Before you get out the torch and solder make sure you don't have a Poly Choke aluminum rib. If the rib were original it would be machined integral with the barrel. The presence of a Poly on the gun makes me suspicious. The P/C aluminum ribs were held on with a rather flexible two part adhesive and I don't know how effective a re-glue would be. As an alternative you could probably pull the rib all the way off and use the gun sans rib as the original blue is probably intact under the adhesive.
Bill Layman
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,196 Likes: 20
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,196 Likes: 20 |
If Polly Choke is still in business, and I think they are, I'd give them a call first, but consider sending it to them. Another reasonable option would be Simmons. Get it done correctly and by someone who has done a lot of that type work in any case. It should not be prohibitively expensive to have repaired.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 19
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 19 |
Have a competent smith look at it. It may be either soldered, brazed or glued as others have mentioned. Each are different in how they would be repaired.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,451 Likes: 278
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,451 Likes: 278 |
Yup, if it's an original Remington rib, it isn't coming off unless you saw it off. It is aftermarket and you have to know how it was attached before you can think about repairing it. Get out your magnifying glass.
|
|
|
|
|
|