Those are 'Liners' in common engraver speak.
They are usually sold under that name as well.
There used to be loads of them available in different widths and # of lines each would cut.
They were marked as such. Graver width and # of lines that particular Liner cuts.
Older catalogs of engravers tools had a full line of them usually.
Not so much anymore. One reason I think is that Liners are often just a 'carbon steel'. Not HSS (or carbide)
Plain carbon steel gravers don't play very well with modern steel alloys used in most firearms mfg done these days.
I think N-Graver Co Liners are HSSteel. I do use a few from that company and they seem to hold up better than my old(er) carbon steel tools I still use.
Not much of a selection from N=Graver Co, but it's a source
Carbide gravers would require diamond sharpening instruments & the xtra fine points on a carbide tool Liner will very break easily.
But there are many types of Carbide and maybe someone has found a suitable alloy to use in Carbide Liner Gravers
Regular carbide single point gravers have been around for a long time. I don't normally use them, but some guns and their HT and/or alloy requires them.
I try and stay away from those guns! The orig Winchester 21 is one of them.
Tough as Hell except the trigger plate which is the exact same steel as the frame, but they did not HT it so it's very soft and nice to cut.
The newer CSMCo/Galazan Winchester 21's are fine to cut as they are 8620 steel, but they are case hardened in most instances. So working on one may require the parts to be annealed and then rehardened.
Some mfg'rs stainless steel offerings are heartless to you and the tools when cutting them.
Carbide helps a lot but even then there are some that are real tool breakers. Absolutely no fun in my book.
Here's a Company that offers a lot of different sizes of Liner gravers.
https://contenti.com/muller-straight-lining-graversThey are Carbon Steel but would likely work just fine on a top rib of a SxS.
It also explains the numbering system used to define liners. That's always been a confusing subject.
Search for Liner Gravers and there may be others that pop up with different offerings.
A wide enough tool and with spacing of lines you can use might be in the bunch.
It's still very difficult to run 30inches and more of perfectly parallel lines up and then back down the bbl crossing them.
Most liners used for matting a top rib is done in a Florentine cut which is a Jewelry engravers cut actually.
Same idea as checkering,,crisscross the two passes. But without the attempt to make it look like perfect, evenly spaced checkering.
The squiggly cut referred to by DerAmi is called a Wriggle Cut.
Very common, easy to do cut on guns and jewelry.
The borders on a parker VH and on the Browning/FN A-5 shotgun are that type.
Simple to do. A flat graver is tilted up and the graver walked across the surface by rotating the wrist back and forth. Walking the tool forward by landing on the edge points of the flat edge pointof the tool.
The higher you lift the tool, the closer together the crisscross cuts will be.
It does take some experience even as simple as the cut is.
A top rib is generally done at an angle from side to side,,45* is fine.
Make passes from one end to the other next to each other from one side of the rib to the other.
Then turn it around and complete the same thing coming back across the first cuts but at the opposite (45*) angle.
Lots of Belgian guns were done like this. Fairly fast but your wrist will be sore after the first one you do!
![[Linked Image from i.goopics.net]](https://i.goopics.net/800/ntm3xp.jpg)
