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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60 |
Anyone repair or fine tune the Greener crossbolt mechanism on their sxs? I want to repair the system on my shotgun to optimize action locking.
I found many internet posts on rejoining sxs shotguns with second or third bite Greener crossbolt. Nearly all treat Greener system as though it were merely a marketing gimmick add-on. No post goes into detail on rebuilding the Greener portion, or bothers to ensure Greener system is as tight as possible.
I have an older USA made shotgun with only a Greener crossbolt to keep it closed. No under-lug & bolt locking mechanism. It has a static lug (which also forms the hook), and the Greener style round bolt. The static lug drops into a mortise on the bottom of the receiver. The Greener bolt, actuated by the lever, passes from the left fence, through barrel rib extension hole, and into matching hole in top of right fence.
Shotgun is loose. When barrels and receiver are shut tightly by hand, barrels appear tight and on face. Soot test indicates full, even contact between breech faces and fences, with minimal contact between barrel flats and water table. The crossbolt does not pull the barrels down far enough, the bolt is too loose.
Has anybody repaired a crossbolt system, for real? Not ignored the Greener when rejoining an old shotgun?
I am not looking for explanations of the rejoining process on a three-bite underlug action, or "take it to a fully trained sxs smith". This is a DYI project, with perhaps the hire of a good TIG welder.
Thank you.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,788 Likes: 673
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,788 Likes: 673 |
The first question I would ask myself is whether the top lever return spring is weak or cracked. Does the bolting become tighter if you push the top lever toward the left, without excessive force, of course.
My only crossbolt guns both have a compensating adjustment screw that limits the travel of the crossbolt, which has a very slight taper. Backing this screw out a bit permits the bolt to move very slightly more to the right.
These are a couple things to check before you start thinking about TIG welding the hole in the rib extension, or adding weld to the bolt and re-fitting, or machining a slightly larger bolt.
I know you do not want to hear this, but this may not be a DIY project. Always be willing to know and admit your limitations. And remember that sometimes, you just can't beat a bricklayer at his trade.
Voting for anti-gun Democrats is dumber than giving treats to a dog that shits on a Persian Rug
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60 |
I am sure that the spring needs attention. I am hoping that one of the features of a crossbolt-only action is a light lever throw, but I am not holding my breath. I agree, much to be evaluated before cash or much effort is expended. Regardless, if time is used even to disassemble and inspect, then another quixotic project languishes.
Lever, all the way to the left with strong pressure, and no change. Pressing down on the top of the barrel chambers when closed, and it seems to be very tight, which gives me the hope.
I don't see an adjustment screw. Given the bolt is already less-than-flush on the left, the impression is that the extension hole is too big, the bolt too small, or both.
The bolt is about 1/16th to 1/8th inch below the surface of left fence when barrels closed.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 14,016 Likes: 1819
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 14,016 Likes: 1819 |
Shotgun is loose. When barrels and receiver are shut tightly by hand, barrels appear tight and on face. Soot test indicates full, even contact between breech faces and fences, with minimal contact between barrel flats and water table. The crossbolt does not pull the barrels down far enough, the bolt is too loose. Exactly how is it loose, Randy? Do you feel movement when you hold the action and shake the gun? Or, do you mean that there is movement in the hinge pin area when the gun is open? There should be no contact between the barrel flats and the action flat, or at the very least only minimal contact at the forward portion. Exactly why do you believe the "shotgun is loose"? Thanks, SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 794 Likes: 37
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 794 Likes: 37 |
I have refitted one and totally replaced another. I had the worn one tig welded and smoked the fit with files and stones. Just be patient. I made a new one to replace a missing bolt out of drill rod if memory serves. They are slightly tapered and I left them a bit proud of the fence to wear in. If you are used to fitting parts by hand it is not hard, just tedious.
If the top lever spring is weak, buy or make a new one.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60 |
Shotgun is loose. When barrels and receiver are shut tightly by hand, barrels appear tight and on face. Soot test indicates full, even contact between breech faces and fences, with minimal contact between barrel flats and water table. The crossbolt does not pull the barrels down far enough, the bolt is too loose. Exactly how is it loose, Randy? There is a few thousands inch play in the locked/unlocked direction. Not left to right. When pressure applied to top of chambers so that fully closed, soot test results as above. The crossbolt does not pull the top rib down far enough. Loose contact between rib hole and bolt, when barrels closed.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 14,016 Likes: 1819
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 14,016 Likes: 1819 |
If you can see daylight between the barrel flats and the action flat, with down pressure by hand as you described, I believe that the fit between the cross bolt and the barrel rib extension needs to be addressed. I have never corrected this situation on a cross bolt gun so would rather not speculate on the best way to do so.
Good luck with the repair. Please let us know how it goes.
SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60 |
I have refitted one and totally replaced another. I had the worn one tig welded and smoked the fit with files and stones. Just be patient. I made a new one to replace a missing bolt out of drill rod if memory serves. They are slightly tapered and I left them a bit proud of the fence to wear in. If you are used to fitting parts by hand it is not hard, just tedious.
If the top lever spring is weak, buy or make a new one. Tedious is what I am assuming, and have Swiss files and stones ready. Seems pretty straightforward, but looking for hints. Confirmation is good, too. It can only lock one way...
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,125 Likes: 38
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,125 Likes: 38 |
Can you slide a tiny shim at the bottom or top of the rib extension? Maybe even aluminum foil to see if you tighten it up and see where material is needed.
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 60 |
Thanks for the try. The hole in the rib is too big. It is too tight on sides, and very small area to try to place some paper or foil, and have it not be knocked off by bolt or scraping against side of notch. Glued or not.
Next step is disassembly and inspection.
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