doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Lefever thumb push action

I just picked up this early 1885 Lefever E grade 16 thumb push. It's the only Lefever 16 thumb push I've ever seen for sale. Does anyone know what the screw behind the dolls head is for?

I think it is for adjusting the locking bolt.

Fun in 16 gauge, Mark! Happy Fourth.

Nice find Mark...

John E is correct on the purpose of the screw. These early Lefevers prior to around 1890 used a vertical bolt which entered the slot in the Doll's Head from the rear. That screw protruded down through the top tang & bore against the top of the bolt. Thus if the gun did not bolt up tightly turning that screw down took care of it.

To the best of my knowledge, all the rod cocking hammerless guns used this system whether they were thumb push or pivot lever. Beginning with the Two-Hook guns the bolt became an extension of the top lever & was wedge-shaped, swinging into the notch from the side & was self-compensating.

It likely also has two small screws in the bottom of the frame. These turn in as a stop for the lower leg of the mainspring. Although Lefever referred to them as having rebounding locks they were not "Truly" rebounding. Once the expansion of the V mainspring was halted the hammers were simply free floating. They had ample inertia to fire the gun but then were not Locked into the primer indent so there was little or no firing pin drag on opening the gun.

Later guns did not have this adjustment but all of mine seem to have been Factory Set so that with the hammers down the firing pin tip is about flush with the breech face.

What's Not to like about a Lefever

Thanks for the replies! Bolt adjustment makes sense. I was wondering what those two small screws in the receiver were for also. Happy 4th all.

One other question, I was attempting to take the wood off so I can re-shape the goofy looking stock someone put on it, but after taking the side plates and floor plate off, the wood is hanging up somewhere internally in the stock head and won't come off. Not sure what I'm missing, although I did not remove the hammers. This is my first rod cocking Lefever so I'm still learning how they work. Any ideas?

Mark;
I only have one, rod cocker, a pivot lever 10, but have never taken the stock off it. Not sure if there is any difference in it and later models or not. I believe you will have to take the hammers out though & the stock kinda slides down & back.

Don't recall for certain now, but on later models, the hammers can be slid off the axle without having to remove the axle from the frame. If needed you can turn those two little frame screws up a bit to give more clearance between the springs & the hammers.

Thanks. I'll try removing the hammers and see if that helps.

Mark, my E grade 16 push lever is number 9335. Could our guns be sisters? I have never seen one before yours either.

Possibly? Mine is number 6683. Does yours have the sharp roughly 100 degree inner angle on the side plates like this one? All the other Lefevers I've seen have rounded lines.