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Joined: Jan 2006
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Will reluctantly admit to still doing so, cause they look better, even after this was discussed previously and criticized.
I realize what's in the stuff
http://www.rbnainfo.com/product.php?productLineId=440
Citral is mostly fragrance from Lemongrass oil
I follow it with Johnson's Paste Wax.
110 year old stock wood is obviously well dried by now.
Possibly prior to lecturing us about lignocellulose, the professor should have at least survived a summer in Phoenix wink

These guys recommend Finish Feeder (no longer available) for new wood. It was similar to Howard's Feed-N-Wax Orange Oil & Beeswax which I also use
https://artisansofthedesertstudio.com/furniture-care

We had to replace a Pella slider oak threshold that gets a lot of direct sun, and the Howard's is keeping it looking new, BUT orange oil will slightly color the wood.
Goddard's has no effect on the color.


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Sidelock
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Ballistol and water mixed 50/50 forms an emulsion that is great for cleaning a grimy gun. Leaves an oily film that protects the gun from rust.

Clenzoil is another really fine product I've been using for years, smells good too, reminds me of Kiwi shoe polish.
JR


Be strong, be of good courage.
God bless America, long live the Republic.
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Boxlock
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Forgive me for missing it but what is the criticism surrounding Old English?

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Sidelock
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The lemon oil is not for modern urethane or lacquer stock finishes, but vintage oil finish stocks.
Both lemon and orange oil products are mostly mineral oil, and excessive use might soften checkering. The lemon and orange oil components are primarily a cleaner, like Goop Orange Hand Cleaner.
Ballistol claims not to do so, and I use it with a soft toothbrush to clean checkering

and this
https://www.antiquetrader.com/featured/is-tung-oil-safe-for-antique-furniture-no-not-really/

Note the fellas making new furniture for the desert have a different opinion regarding periodic cleaning and treating wood.

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