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Gentlemen,

I picked up this old Walther for re-stock practice. The stock is off, and action won't open to provide additional info on it.

I build machines and work repairing others. Rule 1 is - "do no harm .... further'. Has anyone some insights into getting things apart? The top lever moves, but the cross bolt doesn't. Appreciate some suggestions! The gun is pretty plain but the fitting of it is typically pre-war German and reminiscent of Husqvarnas I've seen, with all registered screws etc.

Thanks for any advice!

J.

RE: GUNBROKER #777730246
Carl Walther Double Barrel Side By Side SXS 16 Ga

Interesting project

I know the add says it is safe, but first use a dowel
to insure the gun is totally empty.
MAYBE there are empty cases in the gun with firing pins
stuck in the spent primers.

Second, if empty, see if the top lever really moves the
needed locking parts when activated. You said the cross
bolt is not moving, can you activate it with a wooden push rod?

Third, cock the hammers and see if the firing pins can be moved to the rear.

Please keep us updated on progress

Mike

The top lever is not engaged with the cross bolt lock.
I had one of these but don't clearly recall how the link up between the top lever and the cross bolt goes.
Many guns simply have an extension,,an arm, of the top lever poke thru a cut in the frame and insert itself in a slot in the cross bolt. Then the bolt slides back and forth as the lever is pivoted.

I'm thinking that this Walther instead had a separate part,,a ring, that sat under the top lever and around the spindle w/a stud in it that engages the top lever. Another portion of that ring has the necessary 'arm extension' on it that engages the cross bolt.
Why I remember it like that I don't know,,maybe I'm all wrong. Lately I have been!

Anyway,if the gun was reassembled w/o that 'ring'placed back in there, or any portion of that ring has broken,,,the cross bolt won't open (but the under lug bolt will operate).

The hammers appear down.
Try removing the top lever screw (looks like someones been at it already!)
I think the top lever will lift off leaving the spindle in place.
That 'ring should it still be there (and should it actually be the way I think this action operates!) will be right under neath the removed top lever.

If it's missing you should be able with a bit of angled attack w/a small punch or screw driver push the cross bolt out to the left. The slot to get at it is is at about the 11 oclock position in the rim recess of the where the top lever came out.

Once the cross bolt is out,,place the top lever back in the gun and screw it into place.
Open the top lever. It should still operate the under lug bolt and allow the gun to open.

,,,,and then again perhaps I'm all wrong and thinking of another long since gone project!.


I do kow the Walther SxS was a 1930's shotgun and was built with the assemblyline in mind, not hand fitting as was the norm up to then. But a precision gun resulted as with any Walther product. You'll find yr/date proof marks on the bbl flats.
Stamped internal parts,,all coil and torsion springs.
Very 'PPk, P38' like in it's construction inside. Markings are etched.
They did make a hand engraved variation and also offered ejectors for these.
Trigger guard and thumb safety was a cast plastic material over a metal reinforcement form to mimic black horn. Very brittle on the ones found around today.
Another option avail was interupting sears. Those guns will have an extra screw showing in the lower back corner of each the side of frame.
12 and 16 gauges IIRC.

Hope I helped and didn't just muddy up the water

Appreciate the help!

Skeetx, First, yep it's empty. I got it cocked but the cross bolt is in a blind hole in the receiver.

Kutter, got the top lever off and found there was a tab that had broken off that doesn't want to come out of the slot, almost like there was a tab on it. The break on the lever looks like its cast. do you recall the shape of the tab in the cross bolt slot?

Thanks,
J.

Victory! Cross bolt is out.

Bad news is with the top lever on, while there is definite spring resistance, the gun will not break open. Ideas?

J.

Also, retract bottom locking bolt

Sort of thought that was the job of the top lever. Is that accessible by removing the plate on the bottom of the receiver?

It is the job of the top lever, but the top lever also should move the cross bolt, which it did not.

Attempt to see into the action, see if it is moving when the
top lever is exercised, if not, hook the locking bolt and move it to the rear?

Removing the bottom plate may be helpful, just a lot more disassembly.

Mike

I believe the problem has been found! However, this raised a new problem - how to fix, as it looks cast or forged!

Kutter, you may have hit on something with your previous comment about a washer. the S.N. is 302 (or 308) and a d.o.b. of 2.33. Not sure where this stands in the production, but this may have been a weak point at which point they made a square holed 'washer' with an extension to engage the cross bolt.

I'm thinking it may be easier to make and fit a 'washer out of A2 and add it below the top lever.

Any suggestions or ideas appreciated.

BTW, I suppose it's silly to ask if any schematics could be found on this action, anyone know?