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#432602 01/13/16 07:33 PM
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 31
Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: May 2012
Posts: 31
When using the ferric chloride solution from radio shack to etch laminated steel barrels, do you use the solution full strength right from the bottle or do you cut it? If you cut it, what do you cut it with and how do you know what the strength of the solution is?
Dave

Joined: Mar 2002
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Joined: Mar 2002
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Have you read Dr. Gaddys articles? He shared a lot of information and I used it as my starting point and information source for a lot of things. It's just good information and helps to refresh my memory.

Joined: May 2012
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: May 2012
Posts: 31
I did and he refers to 15% solution but I dont know how to determine the solution strength.
Dave

Joined: Jan 2002
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Dave I use 1 part PC board etchant 4 parts distilled water. Some use a bit weaker.

Joined: Mar 2013
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Sidelock
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An alternate method from the original Parker Process is using Sulfuric Acid for the initial etch. I use this on all barrels. It's a 30% strength, battery acid right from the box, available at any auto parts store. After the prep and coating of the bores with poly, immerse them for five minutes. Then, remove and rinse well. The barrels will come out with a greenish or pinkish tint with vivid pattern. Blow dry with air, then go over them with 0000 degreased steel wool, which will polish but won't remove the pattern. You're then ready to begin the rusting cycles. I use 3% Ferric Chloride for the other etches, the pattern is nicely maintained throughout the process.

Regards
Ken


I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.

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