doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Staining Checkering

I am getting ready to re-finish a stock that has had it's checkering cut. I will be using some of Small Bore's magic alkanet elixer (that he was so kind to send me) I assume I should apply and work in with a tooth brush. My question is, how do I prevent build up in the checkering? (and will it stain my remaining tooth red in the morning?)

I can't wait to get started so I can finish this project. While it is a great piece of wood, it just doesn't look right quite right without that rich, red color. Matter of

Tape off the checkering until the after the final two coats of finish. Uncover the checkering, apply finish/let set for a short time, dab area with paper towel to blot up excess, use tooth brush to remove excess from the bottom of the checkering, again blot excess finish from the gunstock and wipe with a lint free cloth. Let dry overnight, repeat above process. Should be close to the color and sheen you desire. Sorry the tooth brush is a goner after the first time. Use your wife's tooth brush.....if you dare.

I have no idea why, but I have read that you should thin the finish before applying to checkering. Possibly so you don't fill in the valleys.

I think, in my experience, it depends on the piece of stockwood you have. Sometimes, just applying the stock finish to the "new" checkering does not color the checkering correctly. If the new stock has the new checkering cut into fine diamonds, not flattop checkering, it may never look like the gun did when it was made. Sometimes it is better to "stain" the new checkering , starting with a lighter color, until the right color is achieved. Then you can put a thinned finish over the checkering , as noted above.

2nd what Daryl typed

sometimes the checkering takes the stain better and ends up darker. Just mess with it until it is right.

And even if you don't do anything to it, it will look better after a season or two of use.

The books I've seen say that old stocks should be cleaned out with turps and a stiff brush. Most new stocks after they have been checkered are left untouched as the the oil would clog in the checkering making it look not as deep. I think if you use the above methods mentioned, you should be ok. Thinning it down sounds good and use a very small amount working it well in with your tooth brush. i would think one application would do as you don't want it to build up only to blend in with the surrounding walnut.

If I were to do this, the order would have been reversed. I would have finished the wood first and then gone and done the checkering. After the checkering is done, it is a simple matter to apply some thinned finish to it a few times. It will soak right in.

Staining the checkering is secondary to the process. Just as metal can be case hardened, almost any species of wood can be case hardened. I will explain...have you ever tried to drive a nail through a piece of OLD yellow pine? It's near impossible without bending the nail. Turpentine is a derivitive of yellow pine. when you are finished checkering the walnut stock, in a small ashtray or bottle cap mix 1/2 teaspoon terpentine with 4 or 5 drops of black oil based paint like rustoleum. then apply with a toothbrush in both directions of the grooves. allow it to soak in for several minutes while you remove the excess terps from the tooth brush with a paper towel, then brush again in both directions to remove excess terps from the checkering. after about one hour the terpentine is dry on both the checkering and the old tooth brush and the tooth brush is 5 times stiffer than when you started. Brush again with the stiffened (dry) tooth brush to polish the checkering. This concept can be fiddled with with reasonable success. On fine checkering or high grade wood where no staining is wanted, three or four drinks of turpentine without color added will case harden the checkering, then if you like, one last drink of terps with coloring (or 3 drops of finish) can be applied. Allow 24 hrs between terp applications for maximum hardening of the checkering. I was taught this technique 25+ yrs ago by a Belgian/American surveyor from North Carolina, who grew up in Liege. His whole family participated in the gunsmithing cottage industry for several generations. Below is the first gun I ever case hardened the checkering using this technique. I checked and hardened it back in 1981 and the gun has been in service as a shooter ever since. The diamonds have withstood the test of time and use. Please remember where you first learned this concept.

I appreciate your sharing this. The info will be put to use.