doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com options for damascus barrel W.W. Greener?

I have stumbled across a W.W. Greener 12 gauge (F30 I believe).

It still locks up rock solid. It has also had some cosmetic enhancements over the years. At some point, the barrels have been coated in something (similar to parkerizing) which obscures whether they are damascus or not.

But based on the serial number, and the "Sterling Steel" stamp on the barrels, I believe the are laminated. So what are my options? Any suggestions for a reputable gunsmith who can inspect the barrels? Will the parkerizing need to be removed? X-ray or other options available?

Sterling Steel appears to be an early fluid steel
Forest & Stream 1891
https://books.google.com/books?id=9kchAQAAMAAJ&pg=PR8&lpg

It was mentioned briefly in Greener's 1891 Modern Shotguns, but not in the 1907 edition of The Gun.

It was not listed in the 1891 Proof House Report
http://books.google.com/books?id=inQCAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA9

could be it was blasted then hot blued,hard to tell from the photos.

I should think in any case the finish is ugly and you couldn't go far wrong by stripping it back and striking them up at that point you could do a test etch and see if they have any kind of pattern, then get your barrel man to sort them out

Greener records indicate the gun was made about 1892. I would definitely take that "finish" off and have the gun reblued which would add to the enjoyment of it. There are several good guys to do a rust blue for you.
However in looking at your picture again, I see indications of a laminated or Damascus barrel , so check it after that mess is taken off to determine the best new finish to use.

crazyquik,

Could you post a pic of the barrel flats? Since you're going to refinish them anyways, try rubbing some vinegar on the flats to see if a pattern comes out. If none does, then they're fluid steel as per the ad DocDrew posted.

I'll never understand folks who bead-blast and then immediately blue. I've run several tests on barrel sections using extra-fine beads, but have found there's still a slight "peening" texture on the metal.

I've found that the texture is about the same as 180 grit or so, requiring further sanding. I can't really see the benefit as far as labor or time savings over regular hand methods.

I am going to experiment with it on actions eventually.

I think I have one and will try posting it tonight.

Either the refinishing filled in a lot of the info on the flats, or it was buffed/rubbed off in the refinishing process.

Looking at the photo of the underside of your barrels makes me think that perhaps they were refinished with DuraCoat or Cerakote firearms finish. It looks like there is some scroll engraving on the barrel lug that is completely filled in except where the finish has flaked off. I'd lean toward it being DuraCoat because it looks pretty thick, and Cerakote is typically only .0005" to .001" thick. Cerakote is also usually baked on, and I don't know what temperature is used for baking or if it would melt soft solder joints on double barrels.

Of the two, I'd hope it was the DuraCoat just because Cerakote is supposed to be much tougher to remove. Even DuraCoat is said to be pretty tough to remove. It is suggested to use Jasco Paint and Epoxy Remover, because most other chemical paint strippers won't remove it. Jasco is sold at Lowe's and Home Depot for about $10.00 a quart. Even with the Jasco, it is going to take some wire brushing. Jasco is a methylene chloride stripper, so you'd want to use rubber gloves and eye protection.