doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion German & Austrian Sporting Guns @ doublegunshop.com Help identifying Cape Gun

Raimey,
I would not likely go with any of the ones shown. Since I make many of my own rifles, bullets and cases, I would more than likely make my annealer, if I wanted one. The ones you cited seemed to be for commercial operations. There are other, simpler designs around, some that use common torches and battery-operated drills already commonly owned by people that build their own "stuff". BTW, .257" bullets are shown in some data for these cartridges because there are not commonly available .260-1" bullets. Jacketed bullets with smokeless powder are not generally considered to obturate but may expand a little bit if they are large enough that the lands engrave the jackets. Obturation was commonly depended upon with lead bullets and black powder, when the bullets were often smaller than the bore diameter. BTW this is why it is difficult to ID the nominal cartridges old black powder rifles were intended to use, based only on chamber and barrel dimensions.
Mike

I've had one of the older (quite old now) 2 gas torch annealers that requires different wheels for most different cartridges. Very well made and heavy and slightly hard to adjust the two torches to get the desired annealing. I spotted the AGS several years ago and really liked the way it functions and its cost of $200 (much less than the older one!). I ordered one and it came so quickly from Serbia I could hardly believe it. It works perfectly with the case arriving at the rotating platform and the annealing delivered by the speed setting and the flame setting. So simple and yet so effective and I have corresponded several times with the guy who makes them. I don't remember using my older one since I got the AGS. Of course, now with the tariffs who knows? Annealing extends the case life and uniforms the loading.

Great Info. Can you set up a tutorial or lay out exactly how to anneal & how often? It is better to add an additional torch? What additional components does one need to add the the kit?

Hochachtungsvoll,

Raimey
rse

Any advice here would be most beneficial¿¿¿¿


Hochachtungsvoll,

Raimey
rse

Raimey, from what I see you shooting I really think you would be better served learning to anneal the cases the old way, by hand with bare fingers and a propane torch. I think you will need 10-50 cases for some old Metric caliber much more often than hundreds of 45-70 cases for BP Sil. or long-range match shooting or 22CF for Prairie Dogs. It would take the same amount of time and effort to set the machine up for 10 cases as for 200, then next week you are chasing a different cartridge while the other shooters are already set op. It won't take much time and/or cases to learn the color of the cases you are looking for and it takes hardly any time at all to learn how to avoid annealing case heads when you are holding them in your bare fingers. If a case neck collapses in on itself, while seating the bullet or sizing, you burned it, don't do that next time. If you heated it a little too much but it didn't collapse, shooting and sizing a couple times while working up a load, will work harden the case. It won't take long to learn how to do it.
Good luck,
Mike

Thanks Ford & that is exactly what Mr .William Noody told me. He said that in the few cases that he annealed that he put the cases in a holder & then fanned the torch along the length of the cases.


Hochachtungsvoll,

Raimey
rse

Raimey, as Mike said, you want to avoid annealing the case heads. From just below the shoulder (if the case has one) to the top of the neck is your target and as the flame spreads, you don't want to put it on the top of the case neck (to avoid overheating "burning" it) and you would not go below the shoulder. Annealing by hand that way is best done in a darkened room where you can see if you get a bright orange you have burned it. The machines like the AGS make it easy. You just set the flame from a single torch to be off the case about a quarter inch below the mouth and then set the speed of the rotation to get a nice even anneal. Only takes a minute to set up and then you can drop the brass in the hole 3 or 4 before the one that rotates in the flame as fast as the one comes out of the flame and drops.

I am not so sure about that. Not at all.

Carcano

Most everyone does whatever works for them; if it doesn't work, it doesn't take long to find out and try something else.
Mike

So, if you go the mechanized route, how many can you anneal @ one time¿


Hochachtungsvoll,

Raimey
rse