doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Blueing bbl's

I'm somewhat hesitant in wanting to blue a set of bbl's again as they always appear to be black and not the blueish black as on a Parker. Any ideas on how to achieve that blueish hue? I've tried solutions like M. Lee, Pilk... while finishing to 220 grit. Boiled to 180* carded w/0000, all oil free uncontaminated distilled. Would applying motor oil on a finished bbl. and then have it set out in the sun for a couble of months under glass give it a blueish look? Thanks in advance.

Take the polish up a bit to 320 grit. Some got to 400.

The coarser the polish (grit) the blacker the 'rust blue' finish generally appears. Just guessing because it doesn't reflect as much light & color back.

Some soln. just naturally give a different shade than others. The type of steel in the barrels effects the finish too.

Most rust coatings will turn over at less than a boil (212F). But at least give 'em a chance and bring the tank to a soft boil.

Make sure you are getting a thorough carding with the steel wool. It can work, but sometimes isn't as effective as a wheel, at least that's what I've found. That can effect the final finish usually leaving it dull.

I add about one to 3 percent ammonium Chloride to make them blacker
Using the Baker formula.

Speed up your carding wheel.

What is the carding wheel made of, Steve ?

Despite photos reflecting blue light, I believe it is true that one can witness original blueing which is blue in color. I have seen it on pre-war european guns, and on some early american revolvers. Is there a proprietary secret? Would some of our overseas contributors like to chime in? Certainly, this site is a place where the service-minded contributions of knowledgeable people has trancended political barriers and created a brotherhood supportive of worldwide hunting, collecting, and conservation causes and issues. I don't know when I have been exposed to more knowledge which just would not have come about without the blogging of Ellenber, Kaduae, and so many others. Particularly can one be appreciative when so many records were destroyed in the two world wars. The Mannlicher Collectors Assoc. is always trying to fill in the voids on serialization, and all sorts of issues in archiving information about their favorite rifles. Soon, such knowledge may pass with the deaths of those who were around and KNEW. Ditto for this blueing thread. I surely await the contributions of those who may know of proprietory or secretive methods. My hat is off to you, and I for one am deeply appreciative!! Steve

I have always found that the higher the polish and the faster the speed of carding wheel, the more "blue" or translucent the job looks. I have had good luck with Brownells .0025" wire stainless carding wheels, nothing too fancy. I dont know what all the different factories used 100 years ago, but with what minor differences can actually physically exist between all the possible solutions, I dont think your color spectrum is going to change much from the solution itself. I also really dont like to use anything with mercury or other nasty chemicals either and I dont see the benefit of constantly switching bluing solutions, so I stick with what works and prep the barrels to as close to original as possible and vary the number of coats and carding wheel speeds to achieve different desired results.

Yes SDH what thickness wire would that be and what width wire wheel should one look for? Brown..ls has 1/2" wide wheels with wire thicknesses of .005"-.006", what's your opinion? G.

I'm not particularly good at remembering numbers and I've been using that wheel for nearly 20 years. I think it has .003" wires(?) I do have a brand-new spare, I think. The wires are not stainless.
My solutions is so proprietary, I don't even know what it is?