Well, I got the hammer springs compressed using the ideas here. Thanks!
It seems that the lever return spring and plunger are also a [censored] to install. Any advice for these?
I use a very crude tool I made for reassembling Ithaca Flues actions. It works on the Lefever N/S as well.
I don't have a pic,,maybe I can take one later. Not much too show!
Take a piece of at least 1/8" thick steel,,approx 1" wide and 12" long.
Think of a ruler used in school,,thats about the size you need,,but thicker.
Along one of the edges/sides @ about mid way along the length , drill approx 3/8" dia hole.
Let the hole dia just meet the outside edge of the steel bar. If it cuts away to the outside, that's OK, 'cause if it didn't,,you must now make a cut to open it up.
The opening you leave must be small enough to still allow the bar to push the full diameter of the lever spring,,but large enough to allow you to back it off past the retension screw once it's installed.
So if the notch/opening to the outside edge is slightly larger than the dia of the screw,,that's good.
At one end of the bar,,and on the same edge as the hole & notch you just cut,,,drill another hole big enough to loop a strong wire through.
That's it.
In use, you put the action upside down in the vise,,as in the last of the pictures above.
Tighten up the vise so that the action is both secure AND the vise handle comes around to a near verticle position.
You are going to use the vise handle & knob as the anchoring point for the wire loop on the one end of the bar. I twisted the wire into a figure 8,,seems to stay put better on the vise handle.
It takes a bit of futzing to get everything into place,,vise handle, loop length, etc. You want the bar edge to come down flat with the frame when it compresses the spring into position.
Then push the spring into full compression. You have alot of leverage from the length of the bar.
Sometimes the bar will want to tip as it initially pushes the spring in place,,that's the reason for at least 1/8" thick bar.
Push the spring into position with the edges of the notch you formed in bar.
When the spring is fully in position, that 3/8"dia hole you drilled will now give you a window where you can place the retaining screw into place and screw it in.
A magnetized screw driver is a real help here!
Release the tension on the spring,,the notch allows the bar to be withdrawn from the work clearing the retaining screw, and simply unloop the wire from your vise.
Toss the crude tool under the bench till the next Flusie or Nitro comes around and you'll save some time and knuckle skin.
Or you can make a nice looking one and hang it proudly on the wall.
