doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Definition of a loose action?

Well the lore of the plumbing trade at that time was that at one time the hemp (oakum) used in joining cast iron hub and spigot sewer pipe contained mind altering substances and was upon occasion used for recreation.

Best,

Mike

Yeah, I've heard that, too. I always figured it was a plumber's practical joke on newbies. As you no doubt know, hemp is the stems of the cannibas plant. It doesn't contain THC any more than apple tree wood contains apples.

Even the finest double shotgun is crap for killing an antelope at 300 yds. Its just the wrong application which is crap, not the shotgun OR the Lead Free solder.

When I was ativelly employed in the machinist trade we used Lbs & Lbs of lead free solder & as I said for the applications for which we used it, it definitely was not crap. I was not of course working in the electronics board area, but then neither is soldering in a shim on a doubles hook. I will Guarantee you some of that Eutetic 147 would do a superb job for that.

Somebody mentioned once that he stuck the appropriate shim with a Loctite
product called Black Max that worked very well.

JC

Mike a lot of cheap Italian and Spanish O/U's are loose/slack in the body when opened , if the forend is on then this is not noticeable.

Thanks gunman.

Best,

Mike

Thanks for the information, everyone.

And to answer you questions;

1: I don't plan on shooting very much 9.3x72R at all, unless I start reloading it. $2.50 per round is a lot of money.

2: If the forend is off the gun is indeed much looser. By Mike's test it is both loose and off face. When the foreend is on it does not move horizontally, and you can only detect up and down movement by holding the gun upside down by the middle of the barrels and the end of the stock, and using your knee to apply pressure up and down. Just picking it up rightside-up by the forend and the grip no motion is detected.

3: I don't really want to glue a shim in with locktite, I want a permanent fix, and it seems like soldering on epoxy residue would be an exercise in frustration. And if something like that would work, wouldn't a piece of paper also if replaced frequently?

4: Yes, I was refering to the regular crappy "Oatey" lead free solder. I don't ever remember seeing lead solder anywhere around here, and MSC and McMaster Carr only sell it it large spools. I am looking at some Ersin Multicore 60/40 on ebay right now.

So I guess at this point the soldered shim is my best choice for a permanent repair? Will the 60/40 solder I'm looking at be good? Also, I like the idea of using a blade from a cheap feeler gauge, it would save me from buying a sheet of shim stock. I assume that it would be appropriate to make sure its soft so it will wear before the pin and temper it if necessary?

Thanks again,
Chaz

With the action pins enlarged, and the locking lug made larger, what will assist when the forend is loose?

It's loose....just send it to reputable gunsmith and have it fixed proper.

I do not understand, why would the forend be loose? If anything it would be too tight.