doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Definition of a loose action?

Hello again everyone,

What is the consenseus of a loose action? Mine is loose enough that 0.004" piece of paper makes it "bank vault" tight, and 0.008" is too much. Is this considered loose, shootable, average, Cracker-Barrel donation, what?

Thanks,
Chaz

Chaz: Depends on the gun. Generally speaking if a cigarette paper can't be withdrawn when the action is closed it considered to be "on-face". If it's a Purdey or a Parker or any high grade gun you probably wouldn't want to donate it to CB. I doesn't cost a bunch to have a good gunsmith put a double back "on face"
What kind of gun are you talking about.

Best Regards, George

Thanks, George.

I could weld the hook or solder a shim in or something and put it back on face, but I don't want to if I don't need to. I don't have any cigarette paper, but 0.004" copy paper can be withdrawn from the action where the barrels meet the breech, but can not if it is placed on the extractors. This is with the weight of the barrels unsupported, holding the gun by the grip. Is this still shooting condition? I just don't want to make it bad. I don't plan on shooting it a bunch.

The gun is a Ferlach built Peterlongo Cape Gun in 16 ga x 9.3x72R I inherited.

I also tried placing a shim of paper in the hook, and this brings it back on face, and I may just leave it in and see what happens. I'd hate to have to go to welding/soldering and filing over 0.003"!

(Also, I just heard the "Craker Barrel donation" line on here the other day and thought it was funny.)


Thanks,
Chaz

Yes, your gun is off face and shooting it will make it even worse. Closing on a .004" shim is pretty loose. Solder a shim on the hook, not a big deal, and it will pay off if you want to keep the gun and shoot it a lot.
nial

Thanks, I guess I'll have to go ahead and do that. I guess I might also go ahead and tap out the small barrel ding while I'm at it and make it "right".

What's a good material to use for a shim? Brass, steel? And will regular lead-free solder work well or will I need to get some lead/tin?

Thanks,
Chaz

Get a cheap feeler gauge. Determine exactly what thickness to use. Cut a piece that fits into the hook. Tin hook and one side of shim with 95/5 or 50/50 solder. Lead free solder is junk. You can use any heat source you're comfortable with. Fit shim into hook and hold it there with a piece of appropriate sized drill rod painted with something so solder won't stick to it. Various products for this. When everything is set up right, drill rod is clamped with C-clamp or whatever, things look good, etc. just heat the drill rod enough to melt the solder, let cool, job done. Just make sure to clean oil/dirt off hook and shim and use a good flux suitable for steel.
nial

I am not sure what you are referring tohere as "Regular" lead free solder.
I have used piles of Eutectic 147 solder, which was a lead free solder developed for use on stainless tubing for the dairy industry. I can assure you it is not junk, & it definitly is not priced that way. Have also used Brownell's Force 44 with good results, also an expensive lead free solder. I don't know about all brands but the 95-5 solders I have used were also lead free, the 95 being tin & I seem to recall the 5 was cadmium. Most of these solders do require an acid flux & do not give good results with a resin flux. This requires a through clean-up & neutralizing but they give a very strong bond. For this purpose you might just use a good thin adhesive.

I think the 5% was antimony.

Miller,
I'm thinking he's referring to the typical hardware store solders that are made for plumbing these days. Seems to me they aren't that cheap either. I think they have also outlawed cadmium now, as it is toxic, probably as much so as lead. Cadmium is particularly toxic if the smoke from it is breathed in. Antimony is common as an alloy with tin for lead free solders today.

It has been a long time since I worked in the instument making field, so I would go with Miller's suggestion to use an adhesive. If you aren't going to offer the gun for sale, a piece of tape works pretty well. How many 9.3X72s do you plan to shoot?