1) It appears that the bending jig shown in photo 1 does not have any side to side clamping on the action...
2)...have you had any problems with the cheeks of the stock pull away from the tangs or the action?
3)...I was instructed by an experienced stock bender to get the wood temp up to the 250-260 degree range before bending. I have bent several stocks using that target temp and the stocks did not seem very "pliable" until the wood temp got up in that range.
1) The text and photos talk to and show soft cedar shims clamping the action (and barrels) from side to side. These are as effective as any turn screw...and less likely to leave a mark, too. But if you didn't pick that up, it probably needs better illumination, thanks.
2) No. Although the heat source is easily moved further to the rear if desired. Where the wood begins to bend is where the core reaches bending temperature first, I agree this needs to be thought through before heating, and I probably need to add a comment to the article. The problem, however, with beginning the bend too far back when bending for toe cast as well as comb cast is obliviating the cast at the comb by twisting the stock as opposed to a more gradual outward bend that begins further forward.
3) How hot do you think 212-degree steam is by the time it reaches the end of a 20' steam box, which is generally considered the gold standard for bending wood? If you measure the ambient temperature at the end of the box, you'll find it's 180-190 degrees, which is more than sufficient to plasticize the cell walls. It's the temperature at the core that counts, not the surface; hence the time required in heating to get it there, and you want to get there gently, not abruptly. Sure 250-260 degrees will bend wood (providing you don't overcook it and destroy the lignin in the process). But with attendant additional...and unnecessary...risk to the wood finish you are trying to save.
I don't see the need to make this harder than it is. There's more than enough voodoo out there to go around. Orlen's article addresses such nonsense nicely. You heat the wood, testing it gently after 30 minutes until it bends without undue force. You'll find the vast majority begins to move exactly as I state. Heating longer and hotter than necessary by following knee-jerk formulas that over rather than under shoot only risks needless damage. And as I said a couple times, a Stevens is a much better candidate for your first efforts than a Perazzi. ;
