doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com New stock oil

Anybody try this New Oil ?

Opinions will be welcomed.

JC

JayCee,
I would love to read the safety data sheet.
Remember there really is not a lot new in this World, more likely a variation on theme.
If you can read the label and get an idea of the constituents, it normally points you in the right direction as to what it is.

I have no idea about this product and it is probably great for the style of finish on a military stock. But for a civilian stock, this is only my personal experience, I would stay away from anything that looks, smells, feels like boiled linseed oil as a stock finish. Your mileage may vary.....

Most US military arms used raw linseed oil for finish which you can buy from Amazon.com for 1/2 the price

Here is their website:
http://www.fairtrimmers.com/

Nothing about safety. They have an MSDS posted, but it is hardly legible
http://www.fairtrimmers.com/techdata.html

According to MSDS the product contains Raw Linseed Oil, Resins, Vegetable Oil. The rest is not legible... These are only the ingredients that are considered toxic / harmful.

Pete

Boiled linseed oil is perfect for fine gunstocks. However, I believe this is raw linseed oil. Or maybe tung oil. The military used both.

The linseed that you get from a artist/paint/wood wooding specilaty shop is higher quality than the std Home Depot stuff,as is tung oil.
With todays new urethane/tungoil finishes, you get a more durable and water resistant finish with them than the std linseed old time finishes and you can buff them out after about 30 days curing to get a look just like hand rubbed oil finish. However,the urethanes will not be quite as hard.

I have been starting with MINwax, Helmsman spar varnish for about 4 coats to seal the pores and then start cutting it with tung oil to about 30%/70% mixture of tung to varnish.These coats I will apply and then wipe dry for maybe 15-20 coats.
Another product I like is Armor Seal by General.It is already cut with good tung oil ,but is thinner and takes more to fill the pores.
I'd stay away from std boiled linseed.I also do not tuse silica laced fillers or satin finishes.

Here is the 1936 Ithaca with the Helmsman/ tungoil finish that is awaiting buffing.

The linseed oil from an artist's store is raw linseed oil to keep it from drying quickly, allowing more working time on the picture. It will dry, it just takes longer.

Tru Oil is linseed oil with driers in it to make it dry quickly. Tung oil takes longer to dry and in my experience, takes lots more coats to fill pores and do the right thing.

Hardware store linseed oil works fine, just takes longer to dry.

Hard to argue with Saddlesore's results, but the best local stocker I know still uses raw linseed oil that he gets from Brownell's. This is what he uses on megabucks custom Kreighoff's and other pieces. He's been doing this for more than 60 years, and may be a bit set in his ways, but the results speak for themselves.

Anyone still use Lin-Speed??

http://www.lin-speed.com/