I would reccomend MinWax Spar Varnish, Gloss. It is named Helmsman.It is an oil based Spar Varnish with Uretahne in it. A straight tung oil or linseed oil finish is not very water proof or durable. Strip the old finish off, fix any dings by using a wet cloth over the ding, heated with an iron or big soldering tip ( a wide wood burning toll works good also).
Use a tooth brush and stripper to remove any finish in the checkering. Mask the checkering.
Sand with 320 grit paper,being careful not to round corners etc. Using a sanding block where possible.If you don't use a sanding block ,you are going to get high and low places where the grain is harder and softer. After you think you have it good enough.Wet the stock and immediatley dry with propane torch being careful not to char the wood.You just want to dry it immediatley to raise any grain ends. Sand lightly and repeat once.
Mix your stain with the Spar varnish. I usally fill a perscription bottle with the varnish and add one eye dropper of stain. You will have to experiment with then mix to see how dark you want the finish.
I like to mix the stain with the varnish has stain applied directly to the wood tends not give an even appearnace due to the grain in thewood not taking the stain as much as the softer wood in between.
If you use the Special Walnut it will be give it more of a red cast.If you use dark walnut,you will get more brown.
You will want to remask the checkering before proceding.
It will take several coats, with light sanding or 0000 steel wool rubbing ,to fill the wood pores alone. A stock that has had the finish strip will usually not take as many coats to fill the pores as new wood.
Once you have the pores filled, and a final sanding ( I using do a 400 then 600 grit wet sanding)you can start to apply the final coats.
Mix the Spar vanish with about 15-20% tung oil.
Apply the mixture and and let set about 10 minutes and wipe dry. Reapeat until you get the luster you want. (This may take 10-15 coats)
Remove the masking tape on the checkering and clean it out of any varnish that leaked in.
Put the stock aside for a month and let the varnish harden.
After it hardens, remask thecheckering polish out with rottenstone/felt pad to the sheen you want.
The final step is to apply two coats of the Spar varnish/Tung oil to the checkering. A light coat each time, brushed out with a tooth brush. Then wipe dry around the edges of any over runs outside the checkering.
Another product you can use is by General and called Armor-seal.
It is a uretahne varnish/tung oil mix that is wipe on finish that is fairly durable.
If you have access to an artist's air brush, you can also do a nice job of the finish,
Remember to also varnish the inside inletting and it is a good idea to remove the recoil pad and apply varnish to the butt also.
Last edited by saddlesore; 01/10/11 03:04 PM.
