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I am trying my hand at building a 35 whelen from a military action. I may use Brownells gun kote instead of bluing on the receiver and maybe the whole gun. (Yes, I know it is not traditional. This is just for fun and skill building. I could just rust blue the entire gun and may still do that.)

The action has a "ding" that is to large to file out. I have no idea how it got there. My choices are

1. Tig it and have the action re-treated. (To much for this budget )
2. Leave it alone.
3. Fill it will durafil. An then use the gun kote.
4. Suggestions?

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Anyone ever use durafil? Can it stand the baking temp of gun kote?
Could I solder or braze without affecting the strength of the action.

BTW, it is up front right by the receiver rings.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Jerry

could you put it on a mandril and turn the face of the action back {like when you true the face of the ation} mc

I think i would remove more material than I would feel comfortable about.

Jerry

2. Leave it alone

Gives it character

rather see a ding than bondo and paint

That is where I am leaning. I just wondered is I could braze it without effecting the strength


Jerry

You won't know until it fails. It's the front ring, not really a place to cut your teeth. Leave it alone. We like you.

mausers are case hardened if you braze it you will ruin the hardening. mausers do look cool when color case hardened.

Thanks

I think I will just leave it alone. Sometimes even engineers need help to keep them out of trouble.

Jerry

I was just looking (hopping) for alternative

Jerry: With Gun Kote I have had success using Evercoat Metal2Metal with wood line pitting and larger gouges. I shape it in gouge, with flat wooden coffee stirers. I've already taped off surrounding area with small pieces of tape. Careful final shaping by method of choice [sandpapaper or small file etc.] with the contour of receiver. Then Brownells Spraycan Gun Kote per instructions, as the filler is rated as 260 degrees and the Gun Kote at 300, the extra 40 degrees didn't seem to make any difference. Maybe the insulating qualities of the coating,only 1 hour heating? Hope this helps! Warmest Regards Jerry

Gerald I found this exchange on another website:

Metal 2 Metal being bondo based can it take 400 deg. F without
a problem?
Thanks,
Art

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06-03-2004 12:52 AM #9 WAORacing
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Amateur Metal Finisher


Join Date:Jan 2004
Location:Beaufort, SC
Posts:121
Yea it sure can. I have tested and used several times myself.

Gerald,
I've been in the same situation. The best advise I can give is not to build on beat up military actions. You CAN make a sow's ear into a silk purse, but it's much easier to start out with a good used Remington, Winchester, etc. It's just like stocks - the labor is the same whether it's nice wood or firewood, but the end result is far better with nice wood.

I found a commercial FN mauser (a Marlin-barreled rifle in 243 for $250) to build my 35 whelen. The action is much better than miltary, the bolt handle needed no work, and the trigger & stock were useable. A new barrel, side-swing safety, and refinishing/recheckering the stock gave me a nice rifle. The stock is straight grain walnut, but an ebony fore end tip & grip cap, with a black decelerator .6" pad, it's nice looking.

Regards, Ron