doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Stock refinishing.

I’m restoring the stock of a Spanish double.
It was varnished and after take most of it I put the stock into a plastic bag with acetone for some hours.
This remove all finish but it looks too dry.
I plan to finish it with TrueOil.
Have I to do something before applying TrueOil?
Some lineseed oil?
Any advise would help.
Thanks
Martin

No, if you apply true oil just follow the directions. The wood will soak up as much oil as needed. I would knock the high shine off with some fine steel wool that has been soaked in acetone. It will look more proper IMO than the high gloss outcome if left alone. Also maybe thin a little of the true oil to use in the checkered areas. If you use it at the regular strength it is hard to keep the checkering from filling in. It will look poor if not cleaned out well leaving crisp looking checkering.

Martin,

A recipe that works very well is:

30% Boiled linseed oil
20% Turpentine (Trementina en locales que venden artículos para pintores)
50% TruOil

Gloss is adjusted by the TO-BLO quantities. (More TO more gloss.)

This was generously shared by our esteemed member Yeti.

JC

I've had good luck thinning with mineral spirits 50/50 and wetting some wet/dry 400 grit paper with the mix and sanding to produce a slurry that fills the grain. Wipe cross-grain with a rag while wet. Let it dry, repeat until satisfied with the fill level of the grain (a couple will produce a decent surface, more will fill completely). You might try mixing in some oil based stain with the 50/50 mix if desired.

After the wet sanding/application process, I thinned about 75-80% Trueoil with remainder of mineral spirits and applied with a rag. Sand with 400-500 grit as necessary after several coats, steelwool with 000 or 0000. Burnish with a dry rag or polishing paste.

Wburns,

After applying finishing to checkering you go at it with a toothbrush to avoid the
filling you mention. (Your wife's toothbrush can be used as long as she does not
catch you).

(Actually you can do anything if you do not get caught.)

JC

Thanks for all advises.
I will try your mix JC.

I will also use the "water-fire method" for polishing first.
I do not know if you know how it works.
This is it:
Wet the wood with water, the dry over the fire.
This moves the fibers out, so they can be sanded.
Repeat a couple of times until smooth.

Thanks
Martin

JC, I use a tooth brush, but often the original strength oil is hard as heck to clear out when using something like true oil unless it is cut back in strength. My wife notices that I have been using here tooth brush if I don't thin it out a bit.

I use London oil type finishes these days, and shy away from the True Oil. Nothing wrong with it, I just prefer the London type finish. I am working up that recipe you posted as I want to give that a try on my next stock.

Thanks for all the advises.
Im almost finished, 4 coats of CJ recipe sanding with 400 wet/dry with circular motion.
It end a little dull so I pur some drops of pure TrueOil and I like it!!!
I will post some pictures tomorow with good light.

A last question:
What about some waxing?

Thanks
Martin

I think that filling the pores with several coats of shelac is the best answer for color and grain. Garnet , if you want the classic red brown or button lac for the honey colored french. Finish it with your favorite true oil, poly , varnish or even french polish it. Don's skip the original shelac coats it really adds color and brings out the grain.
bill

Here are some Ideas I have tried...
Besides the acetone, sometimes I have even had to bleech wood to get it even...
then If the wood is uneven or to light I stain it, I personally have had better luck with oil based stains, but maybe it is just me.
I usually use one or two thin coats of Minwax wipe on poly.
Then I start mixing truoil 50-50 with the wipe on poly, then slowly go to 100% truoil in a few coats. When it looks good I finish with a couple of coats of wipe on poly. I use the poly as a sealer and to make the finish waterproof.

Remember if using poly you want to re-coat right away or you have to sand to get a mechanical bond.

Jerry