|
|
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
|
2 members (Tim in PA, SKB),
391
guests, and
2
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics39,503
Posts562,168
Members14,587
| |
Most Online9,918
Jul 28th, 2025
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,679 Likes: 24
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,679 Likes: 24 |
I am glass bedding parts of the top tang of an over-/under and some of the epoxy snuck in under the safety tab and along the top tang where I hadn't put enough release agent. It seems like acetone won't do much to remove it. Putting it in the freezer didn't seem to change much either. Any ideas? Thank you!
[IMG]
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 390 Likes: 2
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 390 Likes: 2 |
Never done it, but I think epoxy reacts to heat. I think I recall someone using a heat gun or hair dryer.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,457 Likes: 336
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,457 Likes: 336 |
Gil, I have used paint remover to remove epoxy from stock wood, but do not know if it would harm your metal finish. You might try a little on a hidden spot to see if it would harm the finish.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 474
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 474 |
The fast way to remove it is with a flame. A candle will work if you have nothing else. Epoxy starts to go at about 400° which is too low to affect bluing. Acetone will remove it but it will take a day or 2 in submersion.
OB
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 884 Likes: 1
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 884 Likes: 1 |
Gil
Ive used the freezer to remove stocks form glue-in benchrest rifles but most often emd up with a broken stock.
As for release agent....Ive tryed them all and nothing works as well as ol Johnson's Paste Wax.
For holes and groves where you dont want the epoxy I eather tape them or use modeling clay........then paste wax everything and I stopped having problems.
Bob
lefeverarms.com
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 571 Likes: 9
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 571 Likes: 9 |
I did the same thing this last winter. I used heat to remove it. It takes a while, and keep testing for when it gets lose. Good luck. It is no fun, but it will come free with some patients and some heat.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
Sounds like a sharp knife or chisel would remove it from a non visual metal surface.
bill
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292 |
Acetone will remove it, but it needs to stay submerged in it for some time....(an hour at least)....requiring a covered container.....FYI
Good Luck
Doug
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 97
Junior Member
|
|
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 97 |
MEK will remove epoxy, use it all the time when making knives.
Regards
M.L.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 139 Likes: 2
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 139 Likes: 2 |
Not sure where you would get it, but many industrial epoxy and paint strippers contain methylene chloride which should not harm the metal. The parts will need to be immersed in the solvent. How long it will take depends on the specific epoxy formulation and the amount of surface area of the epoxy that is direct contact with the solvent. The solvent does not completely dissolve the epoxy but causes it to soften, swell and lose adhesion to the metal surface so it can be easily removed mechanically. Methylene chlorde does need to be used in a well-ventillated area.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
